rushing a noisy stream, foaming furiously as it bounded
onward, and laying bare in its descent huge masses of
black rock, some of them standing out in quite extraordinary
shapes, giving occasion to all sorts of fabulous
tales amongst the superstitious natives. Their origin,
however, is simply th a t of resisted decomposition,,
whilst the once surrounding mass had gradually disappeared
under aquatic and atmospheric influences.
The ascent here was very difficult, and caused many
a slip over the treacherous moss-grown masses of ill-
shapen stones; presently the gorge became narrower
and the path steeper, until we reached a plateau, about
half-way to the top, upon which we found a most charming
little hamlet, half hidden amongst a host of pines
and cedars, its peaceful appearance contrasting strangely
with the wild scenes just left behind. This place was
called Puonosawa, and had its tea-house as well as a
bazaar of small articles, bowls, boxes, etc., in lacquer-
ware, made by the people of these mountain districts,
and amongst which I selected a quantity of very pretty
things to pick up on my return journey. After a short
rest we continued our toil along a somewhat more easy
route, and as we reached the height above, the scenery
quite changed. In the distance towered the fuming
head of Fusi-Yama, and all around there were hills
and plains alternately clothed in the gorgeous colours
of a golden sunset. We passed through several clean
villages,—picturesque they all are in Japan,—where we
had birds and large game offered ; at one place a wild
boar was just being cut up, and I was invited to choose
the part I liked b e s t; however, darkness was fast
approaching, and I had to decline and hasten on,
tempting as the offer was. Pheasants also seemed to be
plentiful here, I saw a very handsome specimen with a
tail fully three feet long.
We only just managed to reach Myanooshta before
complete darkness would have made it difficult to keep
to our path, which frequently ran along steep mountain
slopes. We took up our quarters at a capacious Cung-
gua, or licensed inn, and the room I was shown into
was neatly matted, no other furniture being required
by Japanese travellers; but my interpreter soon managed
to unearth a stool or two and a low table, and before I
had time to open my traps a pleasant-looking girl
entered, and handed me a cup of tea and some delicious
small cakes upon a fresh leaf in lieu of a platter.
Another damsel presented me with a full-blown
camellia, and proceeded to pull off my boots, which had
to give way to slippers on account of the fine rice straw
matting; and, feeling tolerably fatigued, I desired that
my bed should be prepared. A large mattress was