164 COLOMBO.
Buddhism gradually crept in, and became the dominant
religion in b .c . 307. In those early days corrupt
government had its full sway in Ceylon, as elsewhere,
and eventually, by misadministration, there were no
less than seven kings governing the island, when in
1505 the Portuguese landed ; who, after having held
part of the coast for nearly 150 years, were expelled
by the Dutch in the 17 th century. The latter had made
their first appearance in 1601, and in 1643 they fortified
the coast, hut in 1796 they, in their turn, were
defeated by the British, who took possession of all the
maritime provinces, whilst in 1814 they made an end
to the misrule and cruelty of the native king at Kandy
by taking full possession of the whole island.
After these few words, by way of introduction, we
will proceed along the pretty esplanade to the Gulle-
Face Hotel, lying almost hidden amongst the tall
cocoanut palms by which it is surrounded. I t consists
of several detached bungalows, barely a hundred yards
from the sea, opening out a very picturesque vista.
Here every comfort is provided, and, moreover, the
hotel is noted for its very superior curry. Bandhies,
a kind of four-wheeled dog-cart, with an awning, are
always in attendance to take one to the different
points of attraction.
Colombo lies at the mouth of the river Kalaniganga,
JOURNEY TO KANDY. 165
is a clean town, has its government-house and clock-
tower, and the view from its southern extremity is
worth a moment’s pause. On the one side is the
roaring ocean, on the other a number of lakes, the
largest but a few miles in circumference, surrounded
by gardens of considerable beauty, cottages and bridges.
The European residents live in handsome buildings,
amongst most luxuriant vegetation. One day, en route
to visit a friend, I was caught by, what is very unusual
at that time of year, a tremendous tropical
shower, as if the clouds were coming down bodily ;
everything became drenched in a moment, and there
was no escaping it. The rainy season here, as in India,
is from the middle of May until September during the
south-westerly, and in November and December during
the north-easterly monsoon. After a short stay, there
is little to interest one at Colombo, and I was longing
for a nearer view of the mountains and their hidden
treasures, a journey now easily accomplished, since a
railway has been made to run up as far as Kandy, a
wonderful work of engineering.
Nothing can be compared with the magnificence of
the ever varying scenery for the entire distance of
seventy-two miles, as we are running over swamps,
along edges of precipices, and in zig-zag fashion up
steep sides of mountain passes, with glimpses of fertile