and civilians en grande tenue, etc. The motley crowd
in the streets was dense, and all the balconies were
filled with well-dressed people; flags were flying in
every direction, and the excitement was at its height,
when His Majesty, accompanied by his uncle and his
younger brother, supported by a swarm of noble
followers, made their appearance in small boats. The
King, then a sallow-complexioned youth of eighteen with
intelligent features and of soldierly appearance, was
dressed in a short military coat of dark grey silk and
a good deal of gold lace ; his legs were enveloped from
waist to knee in folds of similar material; he wore
white silk stockings and shoes with silver buckles, a
jewelled sword at his side, and a Prussian helmet on his
head. I t seemed a pity, though, that the royal state
requires his teeth to be blackened, for it is by no means
ornamental. King Khoulaloukoru was conductéd to
the improvised reception-hall, where he received
addresses, standing under a throne of crimson velvet.
A curious group here was that of Chinamen, headed by
a mandarin in his long embroidered robe, felt shoes,
and bell-shaped hat. In the evening there was
a banquet given to His Majesty, which ended with
toasts, as usual; and on the next day he took his
departure.
Anxious to see something of the country beyond the
Salat Tabrao, a deep strait dividing the island of Singapore
from the Malay Peninsula, I had arranged to be
presented to the Maharajah of Johore, whose territory
lies on the mainland, although he generally resides
on the island, where I called upon him, and found him
an exceedingly gentlemanly and enlightened man who
has visited Europe and speaks English, He at once
offered to make the necessary arrangement to facilitate
my journey, and for my reception at his country residence.
The next day being fine, I started early,
crossing the strait, about forty miles long and
a quarter to two miles wide, in a narrow part, and
finding a carriage waiting on the opposite shore, I had
a delightful drive of a couple of hours. The scenery
throughout resembled very much that of Penang; the
forests here were, perhaps, even denser, palms and teak
with thick underwood, which latter accounts for the
great abundance of tigers ; they frequently swim across,
the strait and carry off natives, even from the outskirts
of Singapore.
On my arrival at the Maharajah’s palace I found 8
very recherché tiffin laid out in an open hall, to which
I did ample justice ; nor was there any lack of iced
champagne or delicious fruit. Amongst the latter a
mango of greater size and more delicate flavour than
any I had tasted elsewhere ; its consumption should,