Calcutta is famous for its fine gardens stretching
for miles down the Hooghly, and mostly belonging to
native princes ; the ex-king of Oude’s are very
extensive, also containing a menagerie ; those of
Scindiah, Gwalior’s ruler, were likewise very beautiful,
and there is some gossiping notoriety attached
to the latter relating to a little incident that happened
on the eve of the mutiny, when a garden fête, to
which Scindiah had invited the Governor-General and
all the principal Europeans, was opportunely, or, as
many people have it, providentially, put a stop to by a
violent thunderstorm. Over-sensitive people afterwards
talked much of an intended wholesale murder of the
English guests, and subsequent proclamation of
Scindiah as Emperor of India, whilst the latter’s
loyalty to the British Government, like that of Holkar,
the Guikwar, and the Nizam, has become matter
of history.
I have frequently travelled by the French Messagerie
boats, and cannot speak too highly of the capital
accommodation and excellent table they provide. The
“ Meinam was no exception, and her commandant,
a most polished “merle blanc” (white blackbird), as
the French slang terms an out-and-out gentleman.
In Indian parlance, by-the-bye, anything perfect is
called pucka ; one hears people speak of pucka girls,
as well as a pucka horse or pucka cigars. The company
on board was exceedingly agreeable, and the
time passed quickly; there was a Col. H., Commissioner
for the Suppression of Thuggism and
Dacoytism, full of tales relating to exploits of that
plundering cut-throat fraternity; Col. It., talking of
his hill life; a Belgian Consul-General and Madame,
both attentive listeners; a dapper little Irishman,
making everyone laugh with his hyperbolical sporting
adventures, and many others, each adding his mite to
the general fund of conversation, whilst the frolics of a
clever black ape, belonging to the Captain, further
helped to amuse the passengers.
Early on the fourth day we found ourselves in the
open roadstead of Madras, and the weather being
somewhat boisterous, the landing in a massulah, a
large deep surf boat, was by no means pleasant;
the latter are made of planks stitched together with
leather thongs so as to be light, and at the same time
yielding when struck by a sea.
The feature of Madras is its polygon fort, “ St.
George,” built in 1639 ; the natives reside in the so-
called Black-town, which also contains the offices of
merchants and bazaars, a few temples, tanks, and a