axe found here, and alligators of enormous size are
reported as frequenting the rivers further inland.
After dinner we made up a large fire outside the hut,
dragging all the fallen trunks in the vicinity to it, for we
scarcely relished the idea of a “ man-eater ” lurking in
the neighbourhood, who might wish to vary his diet.
These burned brightly all through the night, although at
times it rained heavily, and served for cooking purposes
in the morning. We descended about eight o’clock,
staying here and there to collect plants and flowers on
the way. We reached the “ F a lls” about 10 o’clock,
and I looked around for plants, while my friend bathed,
and the men rested themselves awhile. “ Shall you not
bathe?” he asked me. “ I replied, “ I’ll just wash my
face and hands presently, and let that suffice until we
reach Ah Tong.” We were just about to return to the
path when a pretty fern I had not before observed
attracted my attention, growing on a bit of jutting rock
overhanging the Falls. I borrowed a chopper from one
of the men, and clambered up the rocks, but to reach it I
had to stride across the stream just where it falls over the
boulders. I had secured my prize and was turning to
leap back when slip! bump! splash! I went, plants,
chopper, and all, into the water-worn basin below. When
I regained the surface I was washed down again like a
cork by the weight of water pouring down from above,
but the next time I struck out for the side and crawled
out like a half-drowned rat. My friend and our Malays
had a hearty laugh over my misadventure, and I was fortunately
not injured in any way. I took off my clothes
and wrung them as near dry as possible and then put
them on again, and it is astonishing what an excellent
substitute wet clothes so treated are when dry ones are
not procurable, especially if they can be dipped in sea
water and again wrung dry. We walked on rapidly, staying
here and there in open places where the vegetation
was especially luxuriant to collect such plants as interested
us. About 1 o’clock we reached Kanka Ah
Tong, and I took the opportunity of at once having
another bath—not an accidental one this time—and of
getting into dry clothes. I also took a dose of quinine
in a glass of brandy-and-water, and felt no ill effects from
my accident and long walk in wet clothing.
We stayed here for the night, and the next day we
returned to Jahore, and crossing the straits reached
Singapore about 6 o’clock. In returning down the
Scudai river we saw a slender habited pandanus bearing
its crimson fruit in clusters among its long glaucus
leaves, and in places on the margins of the stream the
beautiful red-sheathed areca palm was very beautiful.
Although this journey was a singularly unproductive one
so far as the discovery of new plants of horticultural or
botanical interest were concerned, yet it had taught me
much in other ways, and gave me an insight into the
habits and customs of the Malays, whose language I had
commenced to learn as soon as I landed in Singapore for
the first time.
It is unfortunate that this Puloi mountain is not more
readily accessible, seeing that at its summit the air is
deliciously fresh and cool, and beautiful views are obtainable.
A good road thither, and a bungalow or two, are
all that are needed in order to make this a valuable sanatorium
for residents in Singapore, who are worse off in
this respect than the Penang people, who have a cool
health station, with bungalows, &c., on the “ H ill,” which
is only a pleasant pony-ride from the town.
Apart from the Malay and Chinese inhabitants of
Jahore, there are tribes of wild men or Jakuns, who are