requisite at starting attended to, it was nearly seven
o’clock as we rode through the market gate, just opposite
the headman’s house—a veritable needle’s eye—there
being barely room for a slim Sulu pony and its rider to
squeeze through. The moon was in the full, and rose as
we started over the plain. We had a delightful gallop,
and had no need of a guide, as the horses knew the
way perfectly well. It had been a remarkably hot day,
but it was now deliciously cool, the soft air being gratefully
redolent with the odour of a mint-like plant (Hyptis)
before mentioned. We laughed and sang to our heart’s
content, and doubtless much to the surprise of the few
Sulus we met hurrying homewards.
It seems strange that these beautiful and well cultivated
islands should he still the last great stronghold of
piracy in the eastern seas. This has been the great blot
on the Sulu character for centuries; and they are also
credited with having poisoned many of the traders who
formerly visited the island, and to whom they had become
largely indebted for goods. We reached the Istana
soon after eight o’clock, and tying our ponies to the
verandah we ascended to the audience-chamber above.
Here, in this chamber, we noticed two small Armstrong
guns mounted on low carriages, and a Gatling gun or
mitrailleuse was also conspicuous. The presence of the
modern armament here would have been rather puzzling
had we not known that the Sultan had obtained these
guns from the steam-ship America, as the first instalment
of the rental or payment which has to he made
annually to the Sultan on account of his having ceded
Sandakan and his territory in North Borneo to Baron
Overheck’s Company.
Velvet-lined armchairs were immediately placed for us
at a round table below the raised platform, and refreshments
consisting of excellent chocolate and sweet biscuits
were brought in. The Sultan’s own servant or “ boy,”
“ Gelah,” a most amusing fellow, saw that we were
properly attended to, and told us that His Highness would
soon he in to welcome us. After the chocolate, brandy
and excellent Manilla cigars appeared under the direction
of “ Gelah,” who seemed to know the habits of
Englishmen tolerably well. He spoke Malay better than
most of the others, and this language formed the only
means of communication we had. The attendants not
having brought a corkscrew, he sent off to fetch one, and
then poured us out a glass each. It was Three Star
Hennessey, and very good. After helping us, the imp
took up one of the chocolate cups, poured a little water
into it to rinse it, and then slung it out at the open door.
He then very coolly nearly filled the cup with brandy and
tossed it off neàt without wincing ; he also helped himself
to the cigars as though to the manner born. As soon as
we entered several boys, superintended by an old woman,
had brought in a lot of cushions and arranged them on
the platform near us. A lamp, and fancy betel and
cigarette boxes were next brought and arranged. The
Sultan himself appeared on thé platform soon after we
had finished eating, and shook hands with us very affably
before he reclined on the cushions which had been placed
for him. He came in with a dignified step and reclined
very gracefully; but as conversation warmed up he sat
upright on the edge of the platform with his legs dangling
down in front, apparently as free and easy as a
schoolboy on a rail fence. A good many Sulus came in
during the evening, so that at ten o’clock the space
between the platform and the door was pretty well filled.
Some of his people had evidently told him of my propensity
for sketching, and he asked to see my sketch