in bloom, as also was a white-blossomed ixora, bearing
pendulous compound clusters of fragrant blossoms. A
curious strong-growing vanilla draped trees in most
places, and on some wet mossy rocks beside a rushing
torrent, a glossy-leaved phalsenopsis (P. luteola) displayed
its golden blossoms, each sepal and petal mottled
with cinnabar. Ccelogynes were everywhere abundant
on trees and rocks alike, and on the latter overhanging
the streams hung masses of a waxy-leaved seschynan-
thus, bearing axillary clusters of crimson, black-striped
flowers, each standing erect from a gracefully modelled
purple chalice. Ferns and mosses hung on the dripping
river rocks in glorious profusion. Numerous, indeed, were
fair Flora’s temptations to lingering dalliance on our
way, but we had an ulterior object in this journey which
nothing must interfere with. Our mission was to push
onward, letting nothing hinder our march—difficulties
and inclinations must alike he conquered if we would
that our journey be crowned with success !
Kambatuan reached, wet ’and fagged, we were glad of
a change of clothing, preceded by a brisk rub with a dry
towel, ere we thought of food. Our guides had selected
a roomy house, and we soon had a cheerful wood fire
ablaze on the hearth, which, as is usual here, was in the
•centre of the large public apartment occupied by ourselves
and our retainers. A fowl and some eggs were
soon purchased, and our whilom host was very hospitable,
having spread some nicely-worked mats near the
fire, and instructed his daughters to make cigarettes for
us, which, with the kindness which clings to their sex all
the world over, they, seeing that we were strangers,
wet and tired, were nothing loth to do. These cigarettes,
under the native name of “ rokos,” were always
forthcoming, and are made of tobacco (segope), both
grown and manufactured by these inland people. It is
cut very neatly, and is made up for sale into ropes or
rolls a yard or more in length, these being folded so as
to make convenient bundles about nine inches long.
Although not given to trickery, it is customary for these
people to make the rope “ core ” of refuse tobacco, or of
the leaves of kaladi, or other plants, aiid over this the
really good manufactured tobacco is wound. The result
of this is that the useable produce is not above one-fourth
-of the apparent bulk, and although all are well aware of
the subterfuge, and carefully examine every roll of this
tobacco before they purchase it, yet the practice continues
year after year. For smoking, this dark shaggy
tobacco is carefully unwound from the “ core ” (or “ prot,”
literally stomach), and enfolded in a neat wrapper formed
of the young leaf of the nipa palm, or occasionally in the
thin husk of the maize cobs, both of which serve the
purpose of cigarette paper by burning slowly but freely,
producing neither flame nor flavour. There is scarcely a
more national trait observable among Borneans than the
smoking of the “ roko.” It is the one luxury common
to all. From the Sultan to his meanest subject—male
or female—everyone indulges in smoking them; indeed
I have repeatedly seen unweaned infants partaking of the
solace of the breast and of their tiny “ rokos” alternately,
both the gift of indulgent Bornean mammas.
August 10th.—All night we could hear the rain pouring
down in torrents, hut it cleared up towards morning, and
at sunrise all was beautifully clear and bright. This is
the view wre obtained of the mountain as seen this morning
at 7 a.m., all the lower part being obscured by the
trees in the foreground. By 7.30 we had breakfasted,
and were on our way. Yesterday had been a most unfortunate
day so far as real progress towards the moun