advantage of being well sheltered by thick groves of date-trees, which
give a very pleasing appearance to the town, and contribute materially
to the comfort of the inhabitants by forming a perpetual shade.
A delightful stream of water gushes out from the rock above the
town, passing through several Streets in its course, and irrigating the
gardens, and even the corn-fields in its neighbourhood. In short
the actual resources of Derna give it a very decided advantage (in
point of comfort) over every other town in the Bashaw’s dominions.
A very pleasant wine (we were told) is made from the grapes of this
place, all of which is consumed by the natives themselves, in spite of
the prophet’s injunctions.
The ravine at the mouth of which the town is situated is of considerable
depth and extent, winding up far into the mountains; some
of the gardens are formed upon its sides, and about them a few trees
occasionally appear, where the soil has been able to lodge. In the
rainy season a considerable body of water rushes down from the
mountains to the sea, and is sometimes so deep and so rapid as to
become wholly impassable ? at such times it separates one half the
town from the other and occasions a consequent inconvenience;' In
the summer, however, it is dry, and the market is held upon its
shining bed.
I t may readily be imagined that natives of Africa complain little
of any inconvenience which fresh water may chance to occasion
them ; and we doubt even whether the inhabitants of Derna would
not rather run the risk of losing a part of their town every winter,
than, be deprived of the pleasure of seeing and admiring so large a
portion of this valuable fluid, and of enjoying the consciousness that,
at least once a year, they have more of it than they know what to do
with.
The water which flows from the spring we have mentioned above
was conveyed through the streets (as the people informed us) by one
of their former Beys, a native of Egypt, who is said to have expended
a. considerable sum of money in beautifying and improving the place,
and to have erected a large and handsome mosque which stands in
the centre of the town.
' The streets of Derna are for the most part narrow and irregular,
and not without that quantity of rubbish and dirt which may be supposed
indispensable to Arab towns and tastes; but the luxuriance of
its gardens and groves are however quite sufficient to balance these
objections; and the abundance of grapes which overhang the walls
and houses, the terraces, covered walks, and every part of the town,
give it a highly pleasing and picturesque appearance.
On the eastern bank of the ravine is the principal burying-ground
of the place, distinguished in particular by a lofty and handsome
tomb raised on four arches, under which the body is placed, with its
usual simple covering of snow-white cement, and the stone carved
turban at its head. The town is undefended both by sea and
land, and may at any time be destroyed by no greater force than
could be brought to bear against it by a brig of war. Upon a bill at
the back of it are the remains of a castle built some years ago by the
Americans; but the guns ate now thrown down, and the castle itself