we looked, in our progress, from the hill to the valley, or from the
valley to the side of the hill, the view was equally delightful.
After quitting the Arab tents, we entered a most beautiful valley
extending itself in a north-easterly- and south-westerly direction;
and three hours more, over hills and through vales, which it would
be useless and almost endless to describe, we arrived at the plain of
Merge, a long sweep of flat country of mingled pasture and cultivation,
bounded on either side by a range of wooded hills about five
miles distant from each other, and stretching from north-east to
south-west as far as the eye could reach. The water from the mountains
inclosing the plain settles in pools and lakes in different parts
of this spacious valley ; and affords a constant supply, during the
summer months, to the Bedouin tribes who frequent it. Although
the ranges of hills which we have described as inclosing it give to
Merge the appearance of a valley, it must be recollected that it is
situated on the top of a chain of mountains of no inconsiderable
elevation; and if we have mentioned it as an extensive plain, it must
also be considered as a tract of table-land raised far above the level
of the sea. In looking over what we shall presently have occasion to
mention respecting the town and the neighbourhood of Barka, it will
be necessary to bear this in mind; but before we enter upon the
subject we must add to our journal the few incidents which occurred
during our stay at Merge.
It was not our intention to have remained a moment in this valley,
as we were anxious to get to Cyrene as soon as possible; but on signifying
our intentions of proceeding farther, (for the day was not half
spent,) the eamel-drivers refused to go on, alleging that Abou-Bukra
had hired them only to Merge. Abou-Bukra himself was: not present
at the time, having ridden towards, the other end. of the valley where
the tents of Bey Halil, who had been some days ait Merge; were
pitched near the tomb of a celebrated Mar&but.. As. we had no
means of disproving the compact alleged, and the camel-drivers. persisted
in their refusal to proceed, we did not think .it worth while to
take any further trouble in endeavouring to overcome, their seruples;,
we therefore ordered the tents to be pitehed and rode-on to Bey
Halil-, fully expecting that he would furnish us with other- camels to
enable us to continue our journey on the following morning. The.
Bey received us as usual with the greatest civility, and promised the
camels at an early hour the next day; by which time;, he. added,
Shekh Hadood would most, probably arri ve and take the. charge! of
escorting us to Cyrene; The next day, however, no camels arrived;
and we again rode down to the tents of Bey .Halil to. learn the reason
of this unseasonable, delay, We found the Bey’s tent filled with
Bedouin Arab Shekhsr who appeared to be in grand consultation,,
and, Halil had either been, or pretended to have been, persuading
them to furnish us with camels tor the journey. The result of the
conclave was- not, however, by any means, favourable, for none of the
worthy Shekhs present would let us have their camels for less than
eighty dollars; a demand so extremely exorbitant that we. did not
hesitate a moment in declining it, and offered them at the same time
thirty, expecting that they would relax, as is usually the case with
them, when they found that we persisted in our refusal.