a much worse road, which obliged us to lead our horses nearly one
half of the way. We had not gone far before a quarrel took place
between Abou-Bukra and one of our servants, and the former, pretending
to be seriously affronted, took the opportunity; (never
neglected by an Arab) of letting us know how necessary he was to us
and declared he would stay no longer- He accordingly rode off, and
all his people followed him, leaving the camels without any drivers,
in expectation no doubt that we should immediately ride after them
and entreat them to resume their occupations.
, In this, however, we were determined not to gratify them, and
took no other notice of their departure than by, telling our servants
to drive the camels on themselves, which they managed to do very
well. The worst part of the story was our ignorance of the road,
and we were greatly at a loss, among the many narrow pathways that
led through the thickets, to determine on which we ought, to take.
Unluckily our chaous knew no more of this road than ourselves; but
we took the direction which we imagined to be the right one, and
contrived to get on with tolerable success.
, Abou-Bukra had before been often trying to persuade us that the
Arabs of the place were much averse to our passing through their
territory, and expatiating on the value of his protection and influence;
he probably imagined that we should be greatly alarmed at the
idea of being left to ourselves in a hostile country; and he knew, at
the same time, that we could not possibly be acquainted with a single
step of the road. His disappointment must, therefore, have been
very great, when he found that no one rode after him, or took any
measures towards effecting a reconciliation. In the mean time we
continued to get on very well, and were convinced that if we did so
we should soon be rejoined by the deserters; accordingly, before the
day was concluded the whole party returned, and of their own
accord entered upon their several duties as before, just as if nothing
had happened. This was precisely what we had expected, and we
iriade no comments either upon their arrival or departure as if we
had been indifferent to both. Abou-Bukra was now all civility, and
his people drove the camels much better than ever they had done
before! Towards the close of the day we arrived at some Arab tents,
and pitched our own close to them for the night, in a valley for
which we could obtain no name; but which, whatever might have
been its title, was certainly a very delightful one. During the last
two days a hot sirocco wind had been blowing,, which rendered the
travelling 1 extremely oppressive, especially during the heat of the
day; on the afternoon of the third day, however, it suddenly
changed to the north-west and brought a smart shower of rain, which
cooled the air a good deal, and was the first which we had had for
some time.
The country from Marg&d to Grenna, the present Arab name for
Cyrene, is of the same hilly nature as that already described; but on
approaching Cyrene it becomes more clear of wood, the vallies
produce fine crops of barley, and the hills excellent pasturage for
cattle.
It may here be proper to mention that, on the day ilfter our
departure from Merge, we observed a plant about three feet in
3 G