soldiers, who were satisfied by gravely looking at an old
passport: and at length I was not a little pleased, to find
myself within the city.
This revolution was supported by scarcely any pretext of
grievances. But in a state which, in the course of nine
months (from February to October, 1820), underwent fifteen
changes in its government—each governor, according to the
constitution, being elected for three years—it would be the
height of illiberality, to ask for pretexts. In this case a
party of men, who being attached to Rosas, were disgusted
with the governor Baloarce, to the number of seventy left
the city, and with the cry of Rosas, the whole country took
arms. The city was then blockaded, no provisions, cattle,
or horses, were allowed to enter; besides this, there was
only a little skirmishing, and a few men daily killed. The
outside party well knew, that by stopping the supply of
meat, they would certainly be victorious. General Rosas
could not have known of this rising; but it appears to me
quite consonant with the plans of his party. A year ago he
was elected governor, but he refused it, without the Sala would
also confer on him extraordinary powers. This was refused,
and since then his party have shown, that no other governor
can keep his place. The warfare on both sides was avowedly
protracted, tiU it was possible to hear from Rosas. A note
arrived a few days after I left Buenos Ayres, which stated
that the General disapproved of peace having been broken,
but that he thought the outside party had justice on their
side. On the bare reception of this, the Governor, ministers,
and part of the military, to the number of some hundreds,
fled from the city. The rebels entered, elected a new governor,
and were paid for their services to the number of 5500
men. From these proceedings, it was clear that Rosas ultimately
would become the dictator: to the term king, the
people in this, as in other republics, have a particular dislike.
Since leaving South America, we have heard that
Rosas has been elected, with powers, and for a time altogether
opposed to the constitutional principles of the republic.
« _
C H A P T E R V I I I .
M o n te V id eo— E x c u r s io n to C o lo n ia d e l S a c ram ie n to— H o r s e sw im m in g—
V a lu e o f a n E s ta n c ia— C a ttle , h ow c o u n te d— Gcology^— G r e a t th is tl e -
b e d s— l l i o N e g ro— P e r fo r a te d p e b b le s— S h e p h e rd d ogs— H o rs e s b ro k e n
in , G a u c h o s rid in g , fea ts w ith la z o— T o x o d o n— A rm a d illo - lik e g ig an tic
c o v e rin g— G r e a t t a il— R e tu rn to M o n te V id e o— C h a r a c te r o f in h a b
ita n ts .
BA N D A O R IE N T A L .
H a v i n g been delayed for nearly a fortnight in the city,
I was glad to escape on board a packet bound for Monte
Video. A town in a state of blockade must always be a
disagreeable place of residence; in this case moreover there
were constant apprehensions from robbers within. The
sentinels were the worst of all; for, from their office and
from having arms in their hands, they robbed with a degree
of authority, which other men could not imitate.
Our passage was a very long and tedious one. The Plata
looks like a noble estuary on the map; but it is in truth a
poor affair. A wide expanse of muddy water, has neither
grandeur nor beauty. At one time of the day the two
shores, both of which are extremely low, could just be distinguished
from the deck. On arriving at Monte Video
I found the Beagle would not sail for some time, so I prepared
for a short excursion in this part of Banda Oriental.
Every thing which I said about the country near Maldonado is
applicable to th is; the land, however, with the one exception
of the Green Mount, 450 feet high, from which it takes its
name, is far more level. Very little of the undulating grassy
plain is enclosed; but near the town there are a few hedge
banks, covered with agaves, cacti, and fennel.
N o v e m b e r 1 4 t h .—We left Monte Video in the afternoon.
I intended to proceed to Colonia del Sacramiento,
situated on the northern bank of the Plata and opposite to
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