woods), the circumstance appears to me, as I have before
stated, of very difficult explanation.
On account of the tired horse, I determined to stop close
by, at the jVIission of Cudico; to the friar of which I had a
letter of introduction. Cudico is an intermediate district
between the forest and the Llanos. There are a good many
cottages, with patches of corn and potatoes, nearly all belonging
to Indians. The tribes dependant on Valdivia are
“ reducidos y cristianos.” The Indians further northward,
about Arauco and Imperial, are still very wild and not
converted; but they all have much intercourse with the
Spaniards. The padre said that the Christian Indians did
not much like coming to mass, but that otherwise they
show respect for religion. The greatest difficulty is in
making them observe the ceremonies of marriage. The
wild Indians take as many wives as they can support; and
a cacique will sometimes have more than ten. On entering
his house, the number may be told by that of the separate
fires. This plan must be a good one to prevent quarrelling.
Fach wife lives a week in turn with the cacique; but all
are employed in weaving ponchos, &c., for his advantage.
To be the wife of a cacique is an honour much sought after
by the Indian women.
The men of all the tribes wear a coarse woollen poncho;
but those south of Valdivia wear short trousers, and those
northward a petticoat, like the chilipa of the Gauchos. All
have their long hair bound by a scarlet fillet round their
heads; but otherwise they are uncovered. These Indians
are good-sized men; their cheek-bones are very prominent,
and in general appearance they resemble the great American
family to which they belong; hut their physiognomy seemed
to me to be slightly different from that of any other tribe
which I had before seen. Their expression is generally
grave and even austere, and possesses much character:
this may pass either for honest bluntness, or fierce determination.
The long black hair, the grave and much-lined
features, and the dark complexion, called to my mind old
portraits of James the F ir st; but very likely the resemblance
may be imaginary. On the road we met with none of
that humble politeness so universal in Chiloe. Some gave
their “ marl marl” (good morning) with promptness, but the
greater number did not seem inclined to offer any salute.
This independence of manners is probably a consequence
of their long wars, and the repeated victories which they
alone of all the tribes in America have gained over the
Spaniards.
I spent the evening very pleasantly, talking with the padre.
He was exceedingly kind and hospitable; and coming from
Santiago, had contrived to surround himself with some few
comforts. Being a man of some little education, he bitterly
complained of the total want of society. With no particular
zeal for religion, no business or pursuit, how completely
must this man’s life he wasted! Finding nothing which
tempted me either to stay or to proceed, the next day we set
out on our return through the forest. We met on the road
seven very wild Indians. Amongst them were some caciques,
who had been receiving a yearly stipend, which is paid to
some who have long remained faithful. They were fine-
looking men, and they rode one after the other, with most
gloomy faces. An old cacique, who headed them, had been,
I suppose, more excessively drunk than the rest, for he
seemed both extremely grave and very crabbed. Shortly
before this, two Indians joined us, who were travelling from
a distant mission to Valdivia, concerning some lawsuit. One
was a good-humoured old man, but from his wrinkled
beardless face looked more like an old woman than a man.
I frequently presented both of them with cigars; and
though ready to receive them, and I dare say grateful, they
would hardly condescend to thank me. A Chilotan Indian
would have taken off his hat and given his “ Dios le
page!” (May God repay y o u !)— The travelling was very
tedious, both from the badness of the roads, and from the
number of great fallen trees, which it was necessary either
to leap over, or to avoid by making long circuits. We slept