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with a favouring current, the master was much too indolent
to think of starting. xVt Bajada, he was described to me as
hombre muy aflicto,”—a man always miserable to get on;
but certainly he bore all delays with admirable resignation.
He was an old Spaniard, and had been many years in this
country. He professed a great liking to the English, but
stoutly maintained that the battle of Trafalgar was merely
won by the Spanish captains having been all bought ov e r ;
and that the only really gallant action on either side was
performed by the Spanish admiral. It struck me as rather
characteristic, that this man should prefer his countrymen
being thought the worst of traitors, rather than unskilful or
cowardly.
I S t h a n d 1 9 t i i .— AA’e contiiraed slowly to sail down the
noble stream: the current helped us but little. Azara lias
estimated that even near the sources between latitudes
16° 24' and 22° 57', the river has only a fall of one foot for
each mile of latitude; lower down, this must be much
diminished. It is stated that a rise of seven feet at Buenos
Avres can be perceived sixty leagues up the course of the
Parana. AA'e met, during our descent, very few vessels.
One of the best gifts of nature seems here wilfully thrown
awav, in so grand a channel of communication being left
unoccupied. A river in which ships might navigate from a
temperate country, as surprisingly abundant in certain productions
as destitute of others, to another possessing a
tropical climate, and a soil which, according to the best of
judges, M. Bonpland, is perhaps unequalled in fertility, in
any part of the world. How different would have been the
aspect of this river, if English colonists had by good fortune
first sailed up the Plata! AA’hat noble towns would now
have occupied its shores! Till the death of Prancia, the
Dictator of Paraguay, these two countries must remain distinct,
as if placed on opposite sides of the globe. And
when the old, bloody-minded tyrant is gone to his long
account, Paraguay will he torn by revolutions, violent in
proportion to the previous unnatural calm. That country
will hare to learn, like every other South American state,
that a republic cannot succeed, till it contains a certain body
of men imbued with the principles of justice and honour.
O c t o b e r 2 0 t i i .—Being arrived at the mouth of the
Parana, and as I was very anxious to reach Buenos Ayre.s,
I went on shore at Las Conchas, with the intention of riding
there. Upon landing, I found to my great surprise, that
I was to a certain degree a prisoner. A violent revolution
having broken out, all tlie ports were laid under an embargo.
I could not return to my vessel, and as for going by land to
the cit)’, it was out of the question. After a long conversation
with the Commandant, I obtained permission to go, the
next day, to General Rolor, who commanded a division of
the rebels, on this side of the capital. In the morning I rode
to the encampment. The general, officers, and soldiers, all
appeared, and I believe really were, great villains. The
general the very evening before he left the city, voluntarily
went to the governor, and with his hand to his heart, pledged
his word of honour, that he would remain faithful to the last.
The general told me, that the city was in a state of close
blockade, and that all he could do was to give me a passport
to the commander-in-chief of the rebels at Quilmes. W e
had, therefore, to take a great sweep round the city, and it
was with much difficulty that we procured horses. My reception
at the encampment was quite civil, but I was told it
was impossible that I could be allowed to enter the city. I
was very anxious about this, as I anticipated the Beagle’s
departure from the Rio Plata, earlier than it took place.
Having mentioned, however. General Rosas’s obliging kindness
to me when at the Colorado, magic itself could not
have altered circumstances quicker than did this conversation.
I was instantly told that though they could not
give me a passport, if I chose to leave my guide and horses,
I might pass their sentinels. I was too glad to accept of
this, and an officer was sent with me to give directions, that
1 might not be stopped at the bridge. The road for the
space of a league was quite deserted. I met one party of