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Although the distance from S. Carlos to Castro is only
twelve leagues in a straight line, the formation of the road
must have been a great labour. I was told that several people
had formerly lost their lives in attempting to cross the
forest. The first who succeeded was an Indian, who cut his
way through the canes in eight days, and reached S. Carlos.
He was rewarded by the Spanish government with a grant of
land. During the summer, many of the Indians wander
about the forests (but chiefly in the higher parts, where the
woods are not quite so thick) in search of the half wild cattle
which live on the leaves of the cane, and certain trees. It was
one of these huntsmen who by chance discovered, a few years
since, an Enghsh vessel, which had been wrecked on the outer
coast. Tlie crew were beginning to fail in provisions, and it
is not probable that, without the aid of this man, they would
have been able to have extricated themselves from these
scarcely penetrable woods. As it was, one seaman died on
the march, from fatigue. The Indians in these excursions
steer hy the sun ; so that if there is a continuance of cloudy
weather, they cannot travel.
The day was beautiful, and the number of trees which
were in fuU flower perfumed the air; yet even this could
scarcely dissipate the effect arising from the gloomy dampness
of the forest. Moreover, the many dead trunks that
stand like skeletons, never fail to give to these primeval
woods a character of solemnity which is wanting in those of
countries long civilized. Shortly after sunset we bivouacked
for the night. Our female companion, who was rather good-
looking, belonged to one of the most respectable families in
Castro; she rode, however, astride, and without shoes or
stockings. I was surprised at the total want of pride shown
by her and her brother. They brought food with them, but
at all our meals sat watching Mr. King and myself whilst
eating, till we were fairly shamed into feeding the whole
party. The night was cloudless; and while lying m our
beds, we enjoyed the sight (and it is a high enjoyment) of
the multitude of stars which illumined the darkness of the
forest.
J a n u a r y 2 3 d . — We rose early in the morning, and
1 reached the pretty quiet town of Castro by two o’clock. The
j : old governor had died since our last visit, and in his place a
Chileno was acting. We had a letter of introduction to Don
Pedro. We found him exceedingly hospitable and kind, and
with a degree of disinterestedness which is more common in
La Plata than on this side of the continent. The next day
Don Pedro procured us fresh horses, and offered to accompany
us himself. We proceeded to the south; generally
following the coast, and passing through several hamlets,
each with its large barn-like chapel, built of wood. Near
Castro we saw a remarkably pretty waterfall: it was very
smaU, but the water fell in a single sheet into a large circular
basin, around which stately trees, from 1 0 0 to 1 2 0 feet high,
cast a dark shade. At Vilipilli, Don Pedro asked the commandant
to give us a guide to Cucao. The old gentleman
offered to come himself; but for a long time he would not
believe that any thing could induce two Englishmen to go to
such an out of the way place as Cucao. We thus were
accompanied by the two greatest aristocrats in the country;
as was plainly to be seen in the manner of all the poorer
Indians towards them.
At Chonchi, we struck off across the island, and followed
intricate winding paths, sometimes passing through magnificent
forests, and then opening into pretty cleared spots,
abounding with corn and potato crops. In this undulating-
woody country, partially cultivated, there was something
which reminded me of the wilder parts of England, and
therefore had to my eye a most fascinating aspect. At
Villnoo, which is situated on the borders of the lake of Cucao,
only a few fields are cleared; and all the inhabitants appear
to be Indians. This lake is twelve miles long, and runs in an
east and west direction. From local circumstances, the sea-
breeze blows very regularly during the day, and during the
night it falls calm. This has given rise to strange exaggerations
: for the phenomenon, as described to us at S. Carlos,
was quite a prodigy.
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