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then by a slight change in the set of currents, the loose
matter removed, so that the hard nucleus alone was left.
Although the swell of the open ocean breaks heavily on the
outside of this narrow and insignificant line of reef, yet
there is no record of its decay. This durability is much the
most curious circumstance in its history. Its protection
appears due to a layer of calcareous matter, formed by the
successive growth of several kinds of organic bodies, chiefly
serpulm, halani, nulliporm, but no true corals. It is a
process strictly analogous to the formation of peat; and like
that substance, its effects are to preserve from degradation
the matter on which it rests. In true coral reefs, when the
upper extremities of the living mass are killed by the rays
of the sun, they become enveloped and protected by a
nearly similar process. It is probable, that if a breakwater,
such as that at Plymouth, was built in these tropical seas, it
would be imperishable ; that is, as imperishable as any part
of the solid land, all of which must some day suffer decay
and renovation.
On the 1 7 th we took our final leave of the coast of South
America, and on the last day of the month anchored at
Porto Praya. We staid there only five days, and on the Sth
of September steered for the Azores. On the 19th we
anchored off the town of Angra, the capital of Terceira.
This island is moderately lofty, and has a rounded outline,
with detached conical hills evidently of volcanic origin. The
land is well cultivated, and is divided into a multitude of
rectangular fields hy stone walls, extending from the water’s
edge to high up on the central hills. There are few or no
trees, and the yellow stubble land at this time of the year
gave a burnt-up and unpleasant character to the scenery.
Small hamlets and single whitewashed houses are scattered
in all parts. In the evening a party went on shore: we
found the city a very clean and tidy little place, containing
about 10,000 inhabitants, which includes nearly the fourth
part of the total number on the island. There are no good
shops, and there is little appearance of activity, excepting
the intolera1)le creaking of an occasional bullock-waggon.
The churches are very respectable, and there were formerly
a good many convents; but Dom Pedro destroyed several.
He levelled three nunneries to the ground, and gave permission
to the nuns to marry, which, except by some very
old ones, was gladly received.
Angra was formerly the capital of the whole Archipelago,
, but it has now only one division of the islands under its
government, and its glory has departed. The city is defended
by a strong castle on Mount Brazil, and hy a line of
batteries encircling the' base of this extinct volcano, which
overlooks the town. Terceira was the first place that received
Dom Pedro, and from this beginning he conquered
the other islands, and finally Portugal. A loan was scraped
together in this one island of no less than 400,000 dollars,
of which sum not one farthing has ever been paid to these
first supporters of the present right royal and honourable
family.
The next day the Consul kindly lent me his horse, and
furnished me -with guides to proceed to a spot in the centre
of the island, which was described as an active crater. Ascending
in deep lanes, bordered on each side by high stone
walls, for the three first miles we passed many houses and
gardens. We then entered on a very irregular country,
consisting of more recent streams of hummocky basaltic lava.
The rocks are covered in some parts by a thick brushwood
about three feet high, and in others by heath, fern, and short
pasture: a few broken down old stone wrdls completed the
resemblance with the mountains of Wales. I saw, moreover,
some old English friends amongst the insects ; and of birds,
the starling, water-wagtail, chaffinch, and blackbird. There
are no houses in this elevated and central part, and the
ground is only used for the pasture of cattle and goats. On
every side besides the ridges of more ancient lavas, there
were cones of various dimensions, ivhich still partly retained
their crater-formed summits; and where broken down, showed
a pile of cinders, such as those from an iron-foundry.
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