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viewing the surrounding country from the knife-edged ridges,
the point of support was so small, that the effect was
nearly the same, 1 should think, as from a balloon. In
this descent we had occasion to use the ropes only once, at
the point where we entered the main valley. We slept under
the same ledge of rock, where, the day before, we had dined :
the night was fine, but from the depth and narrowness of the
gorge, profoundly dark.
Before actually seeing this country, I had difficulty in
understanding two facts mentioned by Ellis ; namely, that
after the murderous battles of former times, the survivors on
the conquered side retired into the mountains, where a
handful of men could resist a multitude. Certainly half-a-
dozen men, at the spot where the Tahitian reared the old
tree, could easily have repulsed thousands. Secondly, that
after the introduction of Christianity, there were wild men
who lived in the mountains, and whose retreats were unknown
to the more civilized inhabitants.
N o v e m b e r 2 0 t h .— In the morning we started early, and
reached Matavai at noon. On the road we met a large
party of noble athletic men, going for wild bananas. I found
that the ship, on account of the difficulty in watering, had
moved to the harbour of Papawa, to which place I immediately
walked. This is a very pretty spot. The cove is
surrounded by reefs, and the water as smooth as that in a
lake. The cultivated ground, with all its beautiful productions,
and the cottages, comes close down to the water’s
edge.
From the varying accounts which I had read before reaching
these islands, I was very anxious to form, from my own
observation, a judgment of their moral state—although such
judgment would necessarily he very imperfect. A first
impression at all times very much depends on one’s previously
acquired ideas. My notions were drawn from Ellis’s
“ Polynesian Researches”—an admirable and most interesting
work, but naturally looking at every thing under
a favourable point of view; from Beechey’s Voyage; and
Nov. 1835.
from that of Kotzebue, which is strongly adverse to the
whole missionary system. He who compares these three
accounts, will, I think, form a tolerably accurate conceiffion
of the present state of Tahiti. One of my impressions,
which I took from the two last authorities, was decidedly
incorrect ; viz., that the Tahitians had become a gloomy race,
and lived in fear of the missionaries. Of the latter feeling I
saw no trace, unless, indeed, fear and respect be confounded
under one name. Instead of discontent being a common
feeling, it would be difficult in Europe to pick out of a crowd
half so many merry and happy faces. The prohibition of
the flute and dancing is inveighed against as wrong and
foolish the more than preshyterian manner of keeping the
sabbath, is looked at in a similar light. On these points I
will not pretend to offer any opinion in opposition to men
wlio have resided as many years as I was days on the island.
On the whole it appears to me, that the morality and
religion of the inhabitants is highly creditable. There are
many who attack, even more acrimoniously than Kotzebue,
both the missionaries, their system, and tlie effects produced
by it. Such reasoners never compare the present state with
that of the island only twenty years ago ; nor even with that
of Europe at this day ; but they compare it with the high
standard of Gospel perfection. They expect the missionaries
to effect that, which the Apostles themselves failed to do.
In as much as the condition of the people falls short of this
high order, blame is attached to the missionary, instead of
credit for that which he has effected. They forget, or will not
remember, that human sacrifices, and the power of an idolatrous
priesthood—a system of profligacy unparalleled in the
world, and infanticide a consequence on that system—bloody
wars, where the conquerors spared neither women nor children
— that all these have been abolished ; and that dishonesty,
intemperance, and licentiousness have been greatly
reduced by the introduction of Christianity. In a voyager
to forget these things is base ingratitude; for should he
chance to be at the point of shipwreck on some unknown