found on the numerous species of armadillo, and exclusively
confined to that South-American genus.
By the middle of the day on the 28th we arrived at
Monte Video, liaving been two days and a half on the road.
The country for the whole way was of a very uniform character,
some parts being rather more rocky and hilly than
near the Plata. Not far from Monte Video we passed
through the village of Las Pietras, so named from some
large rounded masses of syenite. Its appearance was rather
pretty. In this country, a few fig-trees around the houses,
and a site elevated a hundred feet above the general level,
ought always to be called picturesque.
During the last six months, I have had an opportunity of
seeing a little of the character of the inhabitants of these
provinces. The Gauchos, or countrymen, are very superior
to those who reside in the towns. The Gaucho is invariably
most obliging, polite, and hospitable. I did not meet even
with one instance of rudeness or inhospitality. He is modest,
both respecting himself and country, at the same time being
a spirited, bold fellow. On the other hand, there is much
blood shed, and many robberies committed. The constant
presence of the knife is the chief cause of the former. It is
lamentable to hear how many lives are lost in trifling
quarrels. In fighting, each party tries to mark the face of
his adversarjq by slashing his nose or eyes; as is often
attested by deep and horrid-looking scars. Robberies
are a natural consequence of universal gambling, much
drinking, and extreme indolence. At Mercedes, I asked
two men why they did not work. One gravely said the
days were too long, the other that he was too poor. The
number of horses, and the profusion of food, are the destruction
of all industry. Moreover, there are so many feast-
days ; and then nothing can succeed without it is begun
b o re to th e b o d y o f th e a n im a l, we c a n n o t c om p a re i t w ith t h a t o f a n y
liv in g sp ecie s. B u t a t th e s am e tim e w e m ay c o n je c tu re th a t, in a ll
p ro b a b ility , th is e x tin c t m o n s te r was from six to te n fe e t long.
when the moon is on the increase ; so that half tlie month
is lost from these two causes.
Police and justice are quite inefficient. If a man who is
poor, commits murder, and is taken, he will he imprisoned,
and perhaps even shot ; but if he is rich and has friendi?, he
may rely on it, no very severe consequence will ensue. It
is curious that the most respectable people in the country
invariably assist a murderer to escape. They seem to think
the individual sins against the governing powers and not
against the state. A traveller has no protection besides his
fire-arms : and the constant habit of carrying them, is the
main check to a more frequent occurrence of robbery.
The character of the higher and more educated classes,
who reside in the towns, partakes, but perhaps in a lesser
degree, of the good parts of the Gaucho, but is I fear stained
by many vices of which he is free. Sensuality, mockery
of all religion, and the grossest corruption, are far from
uncommon. Nearly every public officer can be bribed.
The head man in the post-office sold forged government
franks. The governor and prime minister openly combined
to plunder the state. Justice, where gold came into
play, was hardly expected by any one. I knew an Englishman,
who went to the chief justice (he told me that not understanding
the ways of the place, he trembled as he entered the
room), and said, “ Sir, I have come to offer you 200 dollars
(value about five pounds sterling) if you will arrest before a
certain time a man who has cheated me. I know it is against
the law, but my lawyer (naming him) recommended me to
take this step.” The chief justice smiled acquiescence,
thanked him, and the man before night was safe in prison.
With this entire want of principle in many of the leading
men, with the country full of ill-paid turbulent officers, the
people yet hope that a democratic form of government can
succeed !
On first entering society in these countries, two or three
features strike one as particularly remarkable. The polite and
dignified manners pervading every grade of life; the excellent