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trunks. I am sure that often, for more than ten minutes
together, our feet never touched the ground, and we were frequently
ten or fifteen feetabove; it so that the seamen as a joke
called out the soundings. At other times we crept one after
another on our hands and knees, under the rotten trunks.
In the lower part of the mountain, noble trees of the winter’s
bark, and a laurel like the sassafras with fragrant leaves,
and others, the names of which I do not know, were matted
together by a trailing bamboo or cane. Here we were more
like fishes strugghng in a net than any other animal. On the
higher parts, bfashwood takes the place of larger trees, with
here and there a red cedar or an alerce pine. I was also
pleased to see, at an elevation of a little less than 1 0 0 0 feet,
our old friend the southern beech. They were, however, poor
stunted trees; and I should think this must be nearly their
northern limit. We ultimately gave up the attempt in despair.
D e c e m b e r 1 0 t h .—The yawl and whale-boat, with Mr.
Sulivan, proceeded on their survey, but I remained on board
the Beagle, which the next day left S. Pedro for the southward.
On the ISth we ran into an opening in the southern
part of Guayatecas, or the Chonos Archipelago ; and it was
fortunate we did so, for on the following day a storm, worthy
of Tierra del Fuego, raged with its wonted fury. White massive
clouds were piled up against a dark blue sky, and across
them black ragged sheets of vapour were rapidly driven. The
successive mountain-ranges appeared like dim shadows ; and
the setting sun cast on the woodland a yellow gleam, much
like that produced by the flame of spirits of wine on a man’s
countenance. The water was white with the flying spray;
and the wind luUed and roared again through the rigging.
It was a most ominous, sublime scene. During a few minutes
there was a bright rainbow, and it was curious to observe the
effect of the spray, which, being carried along the surface of
the water, changed the ordinary semicircle into a ring. A
band of prismatic colours was continued from both feet of
the common arch, across the bay, close to the vessel’s side;
thus forming a distorted, hut very nearly entire circle.
We staid here three days. The weather continued bad ;
but this did not much signify, for the surface of the land in
all these islands is all but impassable. The coast is so very
rugged, that to attempt to walk in that direction requires
coiitiiiued scrambling up and down, over the sharp rocks of
mica slate ; and as for the woods—our faces, hands, and shinbones
all bore witness to the maltreatment we received in
merely attempting to penetrate their forbidden recesses.
D e c e m b e r 1 8 t h .—We stood out to sea. On the 20th
we bade farewell to the south, and with a fair wind turned
the ship’s head northward. From Cape Tres Montes we
sailed pleasantly along the lofty weather-beaten coast; which
is remarkable for the bold outline of its hills, and the thick
covering of forest—even on the almost precipitous flanks.
The next day a harbour was discovered, whicli on this dangerous
coast might be of great utility to a distressed vessel.
It can easily be recognised by a hill 1600 feet high, which is
even more perfectly conical than the famous sugar-loaf at Rio
de Janeiro. The next day, after anchoring, I succeeded in
reaching the summit of this hill. It was a laborious undertaking,
for the sides were so steep, that in some parts it was
necessary to use the trees as ladders : there were also several
extensive brakes of the Fuchsia covered with its beautiful
drooping flowers, but very difficult to crawl through. In
these wild countries it gives much delight, to gain the summit
of any mountain. There is an indefinite expectation of
meeting something very strange, which, however often it may
be balked, never failed with me to recur on each successive
attempt. Every one must know the feeling of triumph and
pride which a grand view from a height communicates to the
mind. In these little frequented countries there is also
joined to it some vanity, that you perhaps are the first man
who ever stood on this pinnacle or admired this view.
A strong desire is always felt to ascertain, whether any
body has previously visited the place. A bit of wood with a
nail in it is picked up and studied, as if it were covered with
hieroglyphics. Possessed with this feeling, 1 was much in-
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