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Gotliard, &c. where tlie plains are extenfive, with a fmall lake in their centre : but" hei-e
.the defcent immediately takes place, which of eoiorfc renders this paffagCj and others of
fimilar defcriptions, more dangerous than the mountains.
W h e n the atmofphere is clear and ferene, the profpef t f rom the top of this formidable
lieight (which I found t o be nine hundred and forty-eight toifes, or five thoufand fix hundred
and eighty-eight feet, above the level of the fea) may be faid to exlnbit a mixture of
« aifreufes b e aut é s*' ; a chain of ftupendous mountains, tending from fouth to eaft, prefcnt
tliemfelves to the eye of the aftoniihed fpef tator , whofe torn and arid peaks form a gloomy
and melancholy landfcape ; which is however in fome degree diverfified and enlivened by
a n appearance of the fea, whofe azure waters in the back ground peep through the craggy
and mingled fnmmitS; whof e piu-ple hue terminates the horizon: whiliî flrctching tovvards
t h e north freih piles of mountains feem riiing over each otlier in confufed dire£tions; but
i n no place could I difcem the extenfive plains of Lombardy.
A pillar wi th a niche containing a figure of the Hol y Virgin, which the people of the
country call ' La Madona de bonne remontre,' is ereéled on the fummit; a fpot where hurricanes
are fo frequent, and moil tremendoully felt, but which the mountaineers, who,
from the di reâion of the wind, know pardy the time of tlieir happening, caution travellers
againft, and thereby avert misfortimes, which would otherwife frequently happen. At
this ihrine moft travellers, but particularly the muleteei-s, who have fuch frequent occafion
to make ufe of this pafs, pay homage, promifing the Hol y Virgin a mafs for her proteaion,
placing an ex-voto, or fmall p i f ture, near the niche, defcriptive of the extreme danger fhey
have undergone, and a thankfgiving for their miraculous efcape.
About half-way from the fummi t is a large building, called La Ca+, which, from the
thicknefs of its walls and formidable appearance, might be taken for a fortification.
T h i s houfe, which is of free-ilone and vaulted, was erected by his Sardinian Majei l y as
an afylum or refting-place to the diftreffed traveller, or others, who might be defirous of
iheltering themfclves. Although the refrefiimcnts and accommodations are neither fumptuous
nor abundant, and the building fcarcely mor e than the bare walls, yet thus Iheltered
f r om the inclemency of the weather, plenty of ftraw on which to ftretch one's limbs, a dry
bifcait, indifferent wine, and a good fire, are comforts not to be totally defpifed, and iland
in lieu of tlie greateft luxuries to a wearied or diftreffed traveller. When the company is
numerous, which is often the cafe, and that the fire-place is not found fufficicnlly large to
* Terrific beauties. t A boufe, in the language of the count rj-.