on the flanks and sides with their long pikes, hollooing, and
shouting, and scampering in such a manner that all the latticed
windows flew open as we passed along the streets ;
whilst some of the party were in little better plight than pool
Johnny Gilpin when he rode farther than he intended. And
that no part of the town might be deprived of having a peep-
at our respectable cavalcade, the rascals separated us, as if
by design, some taking one street, some another, whilst we
were under the necessity of remaining perfectly unconscious
whither they meant to drive us. At length Dr. Gillan, Mr.
Maxwell, and myself arrived at a large decent looking building,
with a quadrangular court, surrounded by galleries, not
unlike some of the inns in England, and which indeed we
concluded to be a house of this description. The Doctor
marched into a room without ceremony and began to call
lustily for the landlord, when a gentleman shewed himself,
whose appearance and manner excited some doubts in his
mind whether he might not have committed a mistake; and
accordingly was beginning a suitable apology in French, but
was immediately relieved from his embarrassment by the gentleman
taking his hand and interrupting him with—4‘ No
“ apologies, my dear Sir, I pray y o u ; every Englishman is
“ welcome to my house and to what it can afford.” Mr.
Little happened to be the very person to whom our letters
were addressed ; and we afterwards found that the muleteers
had severally been instructed by Mr. Runy, the British consul
in Santa Cruz, to what houses they should conduct us,
which circumstance explained to us the reason of our separation
on entering the town.
One of the first objects of our inquiries was the mode of
ascending the peak; but we had the mortification to bear
that the season was too far advanced, as the snow had begun
to lie upon the summit. Mr. Little, howeyer, very obligingly
sent for several guides from the city that very evening, m
order that we might obtain full information on the subject.
They gave us but little encouragement; and some of them re-
nresented the undertaking to be attended with such disagreeable
and even dangerous circumstances, at this season of the year, as
compelled them positively to decline engaging in it. Determined,
however, to make the attempt, we prevailed on two of
them to accompany us, one of whom was a regular descendant
of the original inhabitants of the island, called the Guanches.
He was a tall muscular figure, perfectly upright, active and
vigorous, though more than sixty years of age, of a sallow
complexion, with high cheek bones, nose rather flattened, lips
somewhat thick, and long black hair. As a journey to the
Peak is always considered to employ two full days, some provision
must necessarily be made for passing the night on the
mountain. A tent was not to be had in all Oratava, but
the master of a brig then taking in wine furnished us with an
old sail; and We mustered as many great coats, boat cloaks
and blankets, as appeared to be necessary. Mr. Little procured
for us fresh mules, and provided a most abundant supply
of cold fowls, hams, mutton, wine, and other good things
for our refreshment.
About 12 o’clock the following day we set off upon our
expedition, to the great surprize of the inhabitants who bestowed
on us very liberally the epithet of mad Englishmen-
G