same appearance as that of Funchal ; but the steep and
rugged scenery, with which it is immediately surrounded, has
a barren and a forbidding aspect : the rocky surface being of
an uniform sombre hue, unenlivened by the least ' verdure,
and varied only by its rude inequalities, and a few windmills
perched on the heights behind the town. The summit of the
peak, but just visible above the highest ridge, conveys from
this point of view a very inadequate idea of its stupendous
height.
On approaching the shore, the beauties. of the town are
gradually unfolded. The upper surface of the mole, built of
granitic lava, forms a broad gravelled walk which, inclining
to the right, leads to a beautiful Passeadero or mall, for the
use of the public, well shaded by several rows of trees; and
to the left, it branches towards a spacious square, in the
centre of which is an obelisk supporting a statue of San Bernardo
of no mean execution. The streets are mostly laid out
in straight lines, are wide, airy, and clean ; and the houses
in general have a neat appearance, being white-washed with
lime, though this article is not by any means cheap or plentiful,
being made of shells, as there is not any lime-stone on
the island. The substitution of wooden lattices in the windows
for glass is, however, a very considerable drawback on
the lively appearance of the town. In Funchal there were
taverns, and wine-houses, and shops; and a degree of bustle
prevailed in the streets sufficient to indicate its being a place
of some trade and resort: but here, the houses were always
shut up and, except in the mornings and evenings, scarcely a
creature was to be seen but the porters and the fishermen about
F .
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