nor of fertile land in the vicinity. The town, at this time, was
nothing more than half a score of neat white houses placed in a row,
with here and there an intervening space between them; at the back
of which were as many more of an inferior size. * In front, but on
the opposite side of the road, and running under the shade of trees*
is a strong rill of excellent water, led there, as well for the supply of
the inhabitants, as for the irrigation of their gardens, which lie on a
gentle declivity immediately below i t ; but no plan could be more inconvenient
than that, which has been here adopted, of separating the
gardens from the houses. At a few hundred yards from the lower,
or southern end of the street, stands the church, a neat and respectable
edifice, built on the ground plan of a cross; as are, I believe,
all the other churches in the colony. It is white-washed, and
covered with a roof of thatch: it has no steeple; but the purpose
of one is supplied by a belfry separate from the church, and
which consists merely of two large square pillars of masonry, connected
at top by an arch, under which hangs the bell. This is the
usual kind of belfry for all the country churches.
At the distance of half an hour’s walk northwards from the
village, is the Drostdy, or official residence of the landdrost, a
modern erection, surrounded by the dwellings of the secretary and
subordinate civil officers. In placing the drostdy at so great a
distance from the village, the prosperity of the latter seems to have
been unfortunately left out of consideration; for. such an arrangement
seems calculated to cause rather the desertion of it, than any
increase of inhabitants; as experience in similar cases sufficiently
* The Vignette at the head of this chapter represents the Village of. Tulbagh, as viewed
from the parsonage-house, and looking southward. The mountains in the distance are
those of the Roodezandp Kloof. The houses are all white, and covered with thatch: in
front of some of them are square pillars, supporting a trellis of vines; and a row of young
oaks along the street, with a plantation opposite to them, of larger trees of the same kind,
and a few pines, add greatly to the neat and pleasing appearance of this little village. Behind
the spectator are the lofty mountains of Winterhoek; on his left, those of Mosterts-
hoek; and on the right, those over which the Oud Kloof (Old Kloof) passes; neither of
which are included in this engraving.
shows, that new-comers would prefer that situation which is nearest
to the head buildings of the settlement. Some spot close to the
village? would have been the only proper site; as well on account of
adding to its size and importance, as of the greater convenience it
would possess, on many occasions, for transacting public business.
The two places are now distinguished from each other, by the names
of Kerk-straat (Church-street), and the Drostdy.. This latter is a
large and handsome stuccoed building*, ornamented in front with a
portico of three arches, to which the ascent is by a flight of steps.
It contains several large and lofty rooms ; together with a spacious
council-room, in which public meetings, and the sittings of the judges
at the annual circuit, are held.
The mountains, that on each side bound the valley of Waveren,
gradually approach each other as they run northward beyond Tul-
bagh, increasing in elevation ; and at a few miles beyond the Drostdy,
they unite, forming a nook called Winterhoek (Winter Corner),, on
account of the snow with which the summits here, are more frequently
covered than in any other part of the range. The valley
below is exceedingly romantic and secluded; but the surrounding
mountains intercept the sun for some time after it has risen, and
before it has set, to the more open parts of the country ; a circumstance
which, particularly in summer, is far from being disadvantageous.
It contains several pleasant farms, and a number of
streamlets, which, receiving a constant supply from the mountains,
unite their waters to form the Kleine Berg (Little Mountain) river.
This, running southward, finds a way, by the Roodezand Kloof,
through the great western chain, and thence, by a north-westerly
course, after joining the Groote Berg river, discharges itself into
St. Helena Bay.
17th. Mr. Ballot having kindly furnished us with horses, in
order that our own might be left to rest during our stay at Tulbagh,
* A representation of the Drostdy is given at the end of the chapter. The distant
mountain there seen is part of the lofty range of Winterhoek. At the back of the build-
ing, or a little more to the right of the picture, is the Witsenberg range.