radishes, eggs, and wine. Fritje, his youngest, performed the duties
of handmaid, and by her readiness and attention, made us excuse the
deficiencies of the meal. Another visitor, a meagre old man, coming
in just at this time, partook with us. He was on his way to Uiten-
hage, a place not less distant than 700 miles. Such long and laborious
journeys are not thought much of by the boors ; the nature of their
population, thin and widely scattered, ha8 taught them to regard a
colonist dwelling at the distance of ten miles, as a near neighbour.
After leaving this house, we came to a short, but rugged range
of mountains, where, by an execrable road, we ascended the rocky
pass of Groote Houhoek, or Howwhoek. * This place is much dreaded
by those who have to pass it in waggons: though not so steep, it
is more difficult than the Hottentot-Holland Kloof; and, being in
the great eastern road, cannot be avoided, unless by the Kleine
(Little) Houwhoek, another pass in the same range, which, however,
is said to be even worse than this.
We passed several waggons at uitspan, and met others, heavily
laden with country produce, proceeding to Cape Town; and, among
them, some bringing timber from Auteniqualand. Were but the
same degree of labor and perseverance applied to. the repairing and
improving of the roads, which is daily wasted in dragging over-land to
the Cape these ponderous loads of planks and beams, which in the end
yield but a poor return for so much trouble, the boors would be.
amply repaid by the facility and dispatch with which their journeys
would be performed.
These uitspan, or outspan places, are, in fact, the caravanserays
of the Cape; and the varied groups of travellers, with th,eir waggons
and oxen, which are frequently seen at such places, taking their
meals under shade of the bushes, interest much by the simplicity
and novelty of the scene. These parties appeared often to consist
of whole families; and women and children, Hottentots, slaves, and
* This word has been spelt in various ways, according to its supposed etymon;
Houwhoek, implying' “ Hewing-corner,” Houdhoek, “ Holdfast-corner,” or Houthoekj
“ Wood-corner.”
dogs, assembled round their fire, presented a curious and amusing
sight.
We crossed the Knoflooks Kraal (Garlic Kraal) river, an inconsiderable
stream, and also a branch of the Bot (Flounder?) river.
It was dark when we arrived at the latter, and this rendered it necessary
to proceed cautiously in fording it,' especially as a late flood had
swept away a part of its banks, and covered its bed with large stones.
On the left bank stood a farm-house, the residence of Vaasje (or Ser-
vaas) Kok, a man with whom my fellow-traveller had some acquaintance.
Here, then, we agreed to take up our quarters for the night;
and on entering his house, were received in a very friendly and hospitable
manner.
lOtfA. In the morning, to amuse us, we were shown the garden,
which, for the country districts, might be considered as one of the
best, as it produced, besides various fruits, several kinds of culinary
vegetables. Turmeric*, under the name of Bori, was growing luxuriantly,
and in full bloom; but its pale heads of flowers are unobservable,
until sought for under the leaves close to the ground. The
roots of this, reduced to powder, form an indispensable ingredient in
amp, a dish much eaten in every part of the colony. I gathered a
handful of wild plants which grew about this spot f ; and saw abundant
reason for regretting my want of convenience for preserving
specimens of the numerous kinds which we passed during our ride.
Two light-dragoons of the 21st regiment were stationed here,
and, in the same manner, others also, at certain distances along
the road, for the purpose of forwarding despatches to and from
the Governorr who was at this time on an excursion to Pletten-
berg s Bay. By such an arrangement, intelligence may be conveyed
with a degree of expedition equal to that of an English mail; but,
* Curcuma longa, Linn,
f Among them were, —
Leucospermwn buxifolitm Aulax umbeUata
Leucodendrwn concolor CalendulaJi'uticosa
Mimetes cuctdlata jRhus rosmarmifolium.