personally known to General Jansens the last Dutch governor, and
to several officers of his suite, among whom was Dr. Lichtenstein,
the present professor of natural history in the university at Berlin.
On being informed of my intention of visiting the colony, they
voluntarily offered letters and friendly recommendations to many
Dutch and German families residing there.
Among these, the Reverend Frederick Hesse, the Lutheran minister,
was more particularly mentioned to me; and a correspondence
having from that time continued to subsist between us, I now decided
on repairing to his house; having first secured a lodging at the
| English Hotel.” The reception which I met with, was such as to
prepossess me with a favourable opinion of the place and of its inhabitants.
He would not allow that I should take up my abode
elsewhere than at his house during my stay in Cape Town ; and the
friendly kindness of his manners at last persuaded me to accept his
hospitality.
The lateness of the evening did but just permit me to present
another letter of introduction, and to pay a visit to an old acquaintance
: but as I walked along the streets, the remaining twilight was
still sufficient both to excite and to satisfy much ■ of my curiosity;
and I was particularly struck with the elegant style of architecture,
regularity, and cleanness of the town.
Thus passed my first African day. Gratified by every thing I
had met with, when I retired to rest, a train of pleasing reflections
ancl anticipations long kept me from sleep.
27th. The next morning I presented my letters to the Governor
the Earl of Caledon, who expressed with much politeness his inclination
and readiness to forward my views.
A letter of introduction to the Deputy Colonial Secretary, Major
(now Colonel) Bird, was the means of my obtaining afterwards much
polite attention from that gentleman. He was then filling the office
of the Colonial Secretary Mr. Alexander, to whom I was already personally
known, but who was absent on a mission to England. To the
friendship of Mr. Alexander, and a voluntary offer of several letters
of introduction, I feel a pleasure-in ascribing some of the advantages
which I enjoyed.'
28th. This, and the greater part of the two following days,
were occupied in delivering my letters to such gentlemen as were
living in Cape Town; in introductions to others; in receiving the
friendly visits of several who now renewed a former acquaintance;
in getting my baggage ashore; and in executing several little commissions
with which I had been charged.
I had at this time decided on nothing more than the general
outlines of the plan for my future travels, agreeable to an intention
of exploring the less frequented or unknown parts of Africa, for the
purpose of becoming acquainted with its inhabitants, and of increasing
my own knowledge by the addition of whatever facts I might have
the opportunity of observing. Being accountable to no one for the
result of my visit to this country, I felt the more at ease to decide
on any arrangement best suited to my views; and determined on delaying
my intended journey, until I should have collected some
information respecting the country, and acquired some experience
and knowledge of its customs and peculiarities.
Besides which, a knowledge and proper pronunciation of the
Dutch language, according to the Cape dialect, and even according
to the corrupt dialect of the Hottentots, was not among the least important
preparations for a journey of research in this part of Africa.
For I am convinced that many incorrect and absurd things, which
have been written about this Colony, would never have been said,
had the writers been sufficiently acquainted with the language to
converse with every class of its inhabitants. To be qualified for
judging of the character of these inhabitants, it is not enough to have
mingled with the better part of society; the Boors must be heard,
the Hottentots must he heard, and the slaves must be heard. It
is an observation which Hollanders have often made, that on their
first arrival they could not readily comprehend the meaning of a
Hottentot when he spoke in Dutch; while it was evident to them