CHAPTER VI.
RIDE FROM GENADENDAL TO THE HOT SPRING IN BRAND VALLEY ; AND VISIT
TO TULBAGH.
H aving lingered till the sun had passed the meridian nearly two
hours, we were compelled to hasten our pace. Following, upwards,
the course of the river, along Hie Vale o f the Zondereinde, we
forded many little streams. These we found deeper than any
we had hitherto passed; but their waters were clear and limpid;
and I remarked, that none of the rivers which we crossed in the
succeeding part of this excursion, exhibited the brown color noticed
at the Palmiet river. A solitary farm-house was the only dwelling
we saw: the face of the country was shrubby; but not a single tree
of any magnitude was to be seen, although many large and decayed
trunks were observed along the banks of the Zondereinde. Firewood
is an article generally very scarce in the vicinity of a Hottentot
settlement; and, in all the grazing parts of the colony, it is rendered
much more so by the wasteful and destructive practice of annually
setting fire to the old withered grass, as the means of clearing the
pastures. The flames, spreading rapidly, scorch and destroy every
shrub and plant in their way, and pervade the whole farm, unless
stopped by a river, or a beaten road. In ascending the Dunkerhoek
(Dark Corner) mountains, part of the Baviaan’s Kloof chain, the
devastation occasioned by this custom was very striking, in the fatal
havoc it had lately made amongst the finest plants of proteas, heaths,
and the richest variety of shrubs we had; passed' in our ride. That
delicate and beautiful heath, Erica vestita, with white flowers, grows
here, as was discoverable by one large plant which had escaped the
conflagration. Antholyza lucidor, and Aulax umbellata, were recognised,
although quite scorched up. Every thing was nearly consumed
or destroyed, and the black, charcoal-like state of this
shrubbery presented a singular, but melancholy appearance. *
We continued our ride for several miles over an elevated
mountainous tract, where no signs of a habitation were to be seen;
the sun had set, leaving us under the dismal apprehension of having
missed o the right road, and of being left to wander all night in a
region where deep ravines and precipices occurred on either side.
Just as the twilight was drawing to a close, we perceived a house
down in the valley below; and, on arriving at it, had the satisfaction
of finding that it was the dwelling of a farmer named
Jacobus Du Toit, where we had intended taking up our quarters
for the night. We met with a cordial' reception; a Hottentot was
instantly called to take our horses, and we were no sooner seated,
than the good lady of the house poured us out a cup of te a ; an
article which, in most farm-houses, is always kept in readiness, as
a beverage that may be taken at any hour of the day.
We took our seat at the family table, and supper was prolonged
by a variety of questions from our host and his wife, respecting
the nature and object of my intended expedition. On such topics
* The natural productions of this day’s journey are noted under the date of the 7th
to the 10th of March, 1815.