174 t h r o u g h t h e d a r k c o n t i n e n t . [FeV j > ; 37s.]
in dropping a stray springbok in a hunting e x cursion
which I made in the evening.
On leaving the Monangah, we struck northerly
across a pathless country seamed with elephant
tracks, rhinoceros wallows, and gullies which
contained pools o f g re y muddy water. Four
miles from the river, Kirira Peak bore W.N.W.,
Usanda west b y north, Wanhinni N.N.W., and
Samui west b y south. A chain o f hill-cones ran
from Samui to Wanhinni.
Surmounting a ridge which bounded the valley
o f the Monangah on the north, and following
its crest westerly, we arrived on the morning
o f the 17 th February at Eastern Usiha. When
in sight o f their conical cotes, we despatched
one o f our native guides ahead, to warn the
natives that a caravan o f Wangwana was approaching,
and to bear messages o f peace and g o od will.
But in his absence, one o f the Kinyamwezi
asses set up a terrific braying, which nearly
created serious trouble. It appears that on one
o f his former raids the terrible Mirambo possessed
a Kinyamwezi ass which also brayed, and, like
the gee se o f the Roman Capitol, betrayed the foe.
Hence the natives insisted, despite the energetic
denial o f our guide, that this ass must also
belong to Mirambo, and for a short period he
was in a perilous state. T h e y seized and bound
him , and would probably have despatched him
had not the village scouts returned laughing
[Feb'us:ih9al875‘] AN IDYLLIC PROSPECT. 175
heartily at the fright the vicious ass had caused.
Usiha is the commencement o f a most beautiful
pastoral country, which terminates only in
the Victoria Nyanza. From the summit o f one
o f the weird g rey rock-piles which characterize
it, one may enjoy that unspeakable fascination
o f an apparently boundless horizon. On all sides
there stretches toward it the face o f a vast circle
replete with peculiar features, o f detached hills,
great crag-masses o f riven and sharply angled
rock, and outcropping mounds, between which
heaves and rolls in low, broad waves a green
grassy plain whereon feed thousands o f cattle
scattered about in small herds.
A s fondly as the Wangwana with their suffering
vitals lingered over their meals in the days
o f plenty at Mombiti, so fondly did I gloat over
this expanding extent, rich in contrasts and
pleasing surprises. Fresh from the tawny plains
o f Monangah, with its thirsty and sere aspect,
I was as gratified as though I possessed the
wand o f an enchanter, and had raised around
me the verdant downs o f Sussex. I seated myself
apart, on the topmost g re y rock.' Only
my gunbearer was near me, and he always
seemed intuitively to know my moods. I revelled
therefore undisturbed in the bland and gracious
prospect. T h e voices o f the Wangwana came
to me now and again faint b y distance, and but
for this I might, as I sat there, have lost myself