devoted to keeping our poor pelted selves afloat,
and this occupied the crew so much that they
half forgot the horrors o f the black and dismal
night. For two hours this experience lasted,
and then, unburdening our breasts with sighs of
gladness not unmixed with gratitude, we took
our anchor on board, and stole through the
darkness to the western side o f Ngevi Island,
where, after kindling a fire, we dried our clothes
and our wetted bodies, and, over a hot potful
o f L iebig , affected to laugh at our late critical
position.
In the morning the world appeared re-born,
for the s k y was a bluish crystal, the shores
looked as if fresh-painted in green , the lake
shone like burnished steel, the atmosphere
seemed created for health. Glowing with new
life, we emerged out o f our wild arbour o f cane
and mangrove to enjoy the glories o f a gracious
heaven, and the men relieved their grateful
breasts b y chanting loudly and melodiously one
o f their most animating boat-songs.
A s we rowed in this bright mood across the
b a y o f Ugamba, w e noticed a lofty mount,
which I should ju d g e to be fully 3000 feet
above the la k e , towards the north-east. From
the natives o f Usamu Island, we obtained the
name o f Marsawa for this the most conspicuous
feature o f the neighbourhood. After obtaining
a clear meridian altitude, on a small island between
Usamu and Namungi, we steered for the
latter. T he art o f pleasing was never attempted
with such effect as at Namungi. Though we
had great difficulty in even obtaining a hearing,
we persisted in the practice o f the art with all
its amusing variations, until our perseverance
was finally rewarded. A young fisherman was
despatched to listen from the sh o re , but the
young wretch merely stared at us. W^e tossed
into his canoe a bunch o f beads, and he understood
their signification. He shouted out to his
fellows on the shore,, who were burning with
curiosity to see closer the strange boat and
strange crew, amongst whom th ey saw a man
who was like unto no man they had ever seen,
or heard, or dreamed of.
A score o f canoes loaded with peaceful, harmless
souls came towards us, all o f whom b eg g ed
for beads. When we saw that th ey could be
inspired to talk, we suggested to them that, in
return for food, abundance o f beads might be
obtained. T h e y instantly raced for the banana
and plantain groves in great excitement. W e
were so close that we could hear the heavy
clusters falling under the native machetes, and
within a short time so many bunches were held
out to us that we might have sunk under the
waves had we purchased all. After storing a
sufficient quantity to provision us for three days,
of bananas, fowls and e g g s , and sweet maramba
t h r o u g h t h e d a r k c o n t in e n t . VOL. I. Q