On the 25th, refreshed b y the meat and v e g e tables
we had purchased, we began our vo y a g e
along the northern coast o f L ak e Victoria, and,
two hours later, were in conversation with the
natives o f Chaga or Shaga, who informed us
that Murambo, king o f Usuguru, was also king
o f Chaga. I am unable to decide whether Chaga
is a promontory or an island, but I believe that
there is, a narrow channel navigable for canoes
(of the same nature as the Rugedzi* Channel)
separating Chaga from the mainland. Between
its southern point and Usuguru Island, there is
a strait about three-quarters o f a mile wide,
through which we passed to Fisherman’s Island,
where we rested for our noonday meal. A t
2 P.M. we arrived, after an hour’s rowing, near
Ngevi Island, and when close to it, we were
compelled to take shelter from a furious nor’-
wester.
W e had been at anchor scarcely ten minutes
before we saw a small canoe, paddled b y two
men, boldly approach us from the shore o f
Ugamba, distant about a mile and a half on our
right or to the east o f us. In our mildest accents
we hailed them, and, after a protracted interval
employed b y them in curiously scanning us, they
permitted us to hear the sound o f their voices.
But nothing would induce them to come nearer
* Rugedzi is the name of the narrow channel which separates
Ukerewe from the mainland.
than about 100 yards. In the midst o f these
vain efforts to win their confidence, a canoe
similar in form and colour to that which had
won our admiration at Muiwanda advanced towards
us. A false prow projected upward, curving
in the shape o f a bent elbow, from the
tip o f which to the top o f the b ow o f the canoe
was strung a taut line, and along this was suspended
some fine grass, which waved like a
mane as she charged u p , bold and confident,
propelled b y forty paddlers. Half o f this num .
ber, who were seated forward, sprang up when
th ey came within 50 yards, and, seizing long
tufted lances and shields, began to sw ay them
menacingly. A s we made no demonstration o f
resistance, they advanced cautiously, and when
within 20 yards, swerved aside, wheeling round
us in a defiant style.
Finally We broke silence, and demanded who
they were, and w h y th ey came up as though
they would attack us. A s they did not understand
either Kingwana, Kisukuma, or Kinya-
mwezi, one o f my boatmen attempted Kiganda, a
little o f which they appeared to understand; and
b y this means we opened a conversation. T h e y
edged towards us a little nearer, and ended b y
ranging their long canoe alongside o f our boat.
Our tame, mild manners were in striking contrast
to their bullying, overbearing, and insolent
demeanour. T he paddlers, half o f whom were