head-wind rising, we were compelled to turn into
the cove o f Wiru, where, through the influence
o f Saramba the guide, who was at home in this
country, we were hospitably received, and meat,
potatoes, milk, honey, bananas both ripe and
green, eggs and poultry, were freely sold to
us. We cooked these delicacies on board, and
ate them with such relish and appetite as only
half starved men can appreciate.
Hoping to reach our camp next morning, we
set sail at 9 p.m., steering across Speke Gulf. But
about 3 a.m., when we were nearly in mid-gulf;
the fickle wind failed us, and then, as i f resolved
w e should taste to the uttermost the extreme
o f suffering, it met us with a tempest from the
N.N.E., as fearful in other respects as that which
we experienced at Usuguru, but with the fresh
torment added o f hailstones as large as filberts.
The s k y was robed in inky blackness, not a
star was visible, vivid lightnings flashed accompanied
b y loud thunder-crashes, and furious waves
tossed us about as though we were imprisoned
m a gourd, the elements thus combining to multip
ly the terrors o f our situation. Again we resigned
the boat to wind and wave, as all our
efforts to keep our course were unavailing.
We began to think that the curse o f the people
o f Bumbireh, “ Go and die in the Nyanza,” might
be realized after all— though I had much faith
BACK IN CAMP. 315
in the staunch craft which Messenger o f Teddington
so conscientiously constructed.
A g r e y , cheerless morning dawned at last,
and we discovered ourselves to be ten miles
north o f Rwoma, and about twenty miles northwest
of Kagehyi. W e put forth our best efforts,
hoisted sail, and though the wind was but little
in our favour at first, it soon veered round, and
sent us sailing merrily over the tall waves, and
along the coast o f Usukuma, straight towards
camp.
Shouts o f welcome greeted us from shore, for
the people had recognized us b y our sail when
miles away, and as we drew nearer the shouts
changed to volleys o f musketry, and the waving
o f flags, and the land seemed alive with leaping
forms o f the glad-hearted men. F o r we had
been fifty-seven days away from our people,
and many a false rumour had reached them o f
our deaths, strengthened each day that our
return was deferred and our absence grew longer.
But the sight o f the exploring boat sailing towards
K a g eh y i dissipated all alarm, concern,
and fear.
A s the keel grounded, fifty men bounded
into the water, dragged me from the boat, and
danced me round the camp on their shoulders,
amid much laughter, and clapping o f hands,
grotesque wriggling o f forms, and real Saxon
hurrahing.