that leads to the great plateau, what a contrast the place
was to our previous camp!
Necessity, including scarcity of provisions, compelled
early starts. The men said that, even on the mountains,
marching during the daytime would he too hot.
So about 2 A.M. saw the small party shouldering the
loads, and quitting the pleasant camp.
We struck out in a northerly course, under the glimmering
of a splendid starlit sky, passing through a country
claimed by the brother of the Makanga king. His name
was Shagwadera, and from what was said, I judged that
his acquaintance was by no means desirable to cultivate.
The features of the country changed but little. We
still ascended, and soon were lost in the thick belts of
coarse, reed-like grass, which waved high above our heads.
Walking in such circumstances is very laborious, a sort of
swimming action having to be maintained with the arms,
in order to prevent the sharp, prickly seeds from getting
into the eyes. Notwithstanding all endeavours, however,
these seeds stick all over the body, giving great pain, as
their subtle points pierce like the tsetse, and have the
additional discomfort of leaving their ends in the flesh.
Burrs, too, cling to the clothed parts of the body.
A slight dew falls during the night, causing a sensation
of chilliness when the slightest pause occurs in our
stemming the bending waves of the high grass.
The stars have faded from the wakening sky. Darkness
lifts, leaving the faintest tint of blue in the brightening
heavens. White, fleecy clouds move swiftly westwards.
The wind has risen to half a gale. Above its tempestuous
voice we suddenly hear a deafening noise, like
the mighty peals of thunder, or of great waters falling
over a vast precipice. Nearer and nearer comes the
ominous sound, borne towards us by the rush of the impetuous
wind.
The air becomes darkened with charred straws, which are
whirled about in waving clouds, and fall on every hand like
winter’s withered leaves.
They are a sign of an immense grass fire. Soon bright
and blood-red tongues of flame can be seen darting
skyward, and swaying and waving before the gale. The
conflagation rages directly across our path; its devouring
tongues sweeping fiercely through the dense cover.
Among the company, it is at once a case of every
man for himself, and devil take the hindmost. With the
greatest difficulty the wild flames are avoided; but at
length in safety we hear their crackling, and see their
fantastic wreaths angrily coiling around the stems of the
great trees, which lift their crowns high above the destroying
sea of fire.
. . . “ the palms, canes, brakes you see
Wrapped in one agony
Of lurid death,”
Still ascending, we pressed on in a northerly direction
for some days. Nothing could be seen to relieve a sort of
dumb monotony in the surroundings. Game seemed to be
very scant. Winged songsters were unknown. No human
habitation met the eye. Much of this poverty of prospect
must be attributed to the miserable character of the soil;
the land of the country consisting mostly of barren mountains
and rocks, the surface of the lowlands being covered
by heavy forests.'
Difficulties with the carriers increased, as lessening provisions
made it necessary to live entirely upon meat.
On each side of our path the mountains rise u p ; the
Kapirizange chain on the left, and the Manganja range far