CHAPTER XYI.
TETTE, AND AOKOSS THE ZAMBESI,
The earliest shower of the season—Mysterious disappearance of a day—
Portuguese possessions in Eastern Africa—Zumbo—;Tette—Trade in
past times—A ruined town—Roman Catholic missions—No understanding
of a Supreme Being—Fetichism—The governor of Tette—
The garrison and government—-Native soldiers—Kanyerhba, the black
chief—Europeans in Tette—Two hundred years of civilised intercourse
—Industries and resources—Prospecting for gold—The rainy season—
The Jesuit fathers—Decadence of the Portuguese—Class of steamers
for river navigation—Rumours of war—The Makanga tribe—Woman
devoured by a crocodile—The tragic story of the Zambesi—Funeral
feasts—Recruiting for the advance—A doleful parting—Crossing the
Zambesi—-A last look at Tette.
On the morning of the 1st of September, 1884, a fierce
wind scoured through the silent streets of Tette, raising
clouds of dust and afterwards bringing down a heavy
shower of rain, the earliest of the season.
An examination and comparison of my journals showed
that a day had been lost somewhere, for I was one day
behind in date. How could this have occurred ? Every day
I had, to the best of my knowledge, written In the pocket
journal. Finally, I came to the conclusion that the loss
had occurred during the excitement of the forced marches
in the Makorikori country; for in respect to time the nights
there had been as lively as the days. On questioning the
governor about the matter he replied:
“ We have heard nothing of the outer world for many
months; but I think we are right as to the date.”
The Portuguese possessions of Eastern Africa are divided
into nine districts ruled by governors, under the control of
the governor-general at Mozambique, which is the Portuguese
headquarters on the east coast.
The district of Tette extends from a point a short distance
west of Sena to somewhere eight days’ journey to the
west of Zumbo. This definition of boundaries can hardly
satisfy the exacting topographer, but it is the only one I
could get.
Zumbo is the farthest Portuguese station inland on the
Zambesi, being about 500 miles from the sea. Its foundation
dates from 1740. The native tribe which inhabits its
belt of country gets the name of Wazezuro from the
Portuguese.
The town of Tette is situated on the southern banks of
the river, on a series of sandstone spurs running in ridges,
gently sloping towards the water, to which they are
parallel. On these ridges the houses have been erected,
while the intervening spaces form the wide streets. The
steep slopes of these ridges quickly carry off the surface
water during heavy rains.
If the observer stands on the right bank of the river and
looks towards the south, he can see at a glance the extent
of the town. In the foreground, close to the stream, he will
remark the governor’s house (Palacio do Governador) above
the esplanade; its bright white walls, red tiled roof, and
pillared entrance being the chief architectural feature in
the crumbling city of ancient slavedom. The receding
ridges rise gradually. On right and left numerous native
huts may be observed, with their short hedges of cactus
intervening. A few broken lines of houses, an hospital and
barracks, and a few merchants’ dwellings, form the principal
buildings.