day was that on which we had made the start with the
Unyamwenda from the borders of Mashona-land in June,
1884.
: Before dawn the wind had fallen, and the little craft was
soon under weigh, pitching full speed ahead as she was
steered straight towards the narrow gates of the lake. On
each side the land converged as we neared the southern
outlet; gradually a current was perceptible, becoming
swifter and stronger, until, with a rush, we darted through
the high reed-walled portals of Nyassa,.and the great lake
was left to thè north. Two hours later'Lake Pamalomhe,
girt with tall and trembling reeds of a deep green hue, is
passed, and we enter upon the waters of the Upper Shire.
As we glide quickly and swiftly past the river’s banks,
the grass tops of numerous village huts are seen; and
twice the white-robed robbers of liberty could be distinguished
standing in groups with their numerous followers,
their garb of purity glaring in the sunlight. Speedily,
however, the scene of slavery was left behind, passing away
like a moving panorama, as we went on to the land of unenslaved
and wildest freedom.
Wonderful were the new scenes which surrounded us as
we entered these regions of teeming life, in which both air
and water were animated. As the steamer ran rapidly
along, panting and coughing forth volumes of spark-charged
smoke, out from the silent and seemingly lifeless trees
came immense flocks of waterfowl—divers and ducks, spoonbills,
kingfishers, fish-hawks, and open-bills ; black ibis, too,
filled the air, uttering their vociferous screams of protest as
they flew away in every direction, dazzling the eyes with
their rich purple-green plumage, flashing in the mellow
light of the evening. •
Jjess pleasant to look upon were the amphibious and
creeping things, which were sadly disturbed by our progress.
Numbers, of crocodiles could be seen on every hand, with
waddling steps hurrying their loathsome bodies from jungle,
and from mud-bank, to slide into the darksome deep.
. The ponderous hippo with his great yawning cavern-like
mouth was seen in herds, all in sportive mood, gambolling,
gaping, and grunting among the waters. Some of .these
monsters would wait until the bow of the launch was within
a few feet of their broad-beamed heads, and then, with an
angry snort, would plunge away from their too formidable
rival, to writhe and roll with leviathan lunge, and double
on the stream.
All day long we had lived in the hope that by sunset we
would reach Matope; but at various portions of the way
the water had been so shallow—owing to the gradual
silting up of the river — that we had frequently been
bumping bottom, and so ran the danger of unshipping the
rudder, or, worse still, driving a hole in the hull. These
contingencies had necessitated a reduction of speed, so that
ere long the stars were seen shining brightly above the
line of trees which studded the river’s edge. The lively
Ilala, however, was well handled by Fredericks and
Harkess, and cautiously groped her way along in the dark.
Another four miles was over, and then the launch was safely
moored close to the bank at Matope.
No time was lost in despatching native carriers with letters
to Blantyre, about thirty-six miles distant. M. Giraud and
myself in the meantime amused ourselves by hunting
during the early hours of the morning; usually starting
about daybreak and returning before noon, when the heat
became excessive, and the task of writing up journals was
thought more conducive to comfort than wading in long
prickly grass and jungle. Abundance of game could be