In all my dealings with these people, they proved
scrupulously honest. Except for drunkenness and
carelessness, I never had to complain of any of the
merry troop; some of whom, bareheaded and barelegged,
possessing little or nothing save a cotton
garment and a long knife, followed me for many
months, from the scorching plains to the everlasting
snows. Ever foremost in the forest or on the bleak
mountain, and ever ready to help, to carry, to encamp,
collect, or cook, they cheer on the traveller by their
unostentatious zeal in his service, and are spurs to his
progress.
ggeiHHHS
* J) 11 Ap * 9 j f | . 9 (f ®- f t I If iff f
<î | f w é | 9 M | i Î J $
TIBETAN AMULET.
CHAPTEK VIII.
Difficulty in procuring leave to enter Sikkim—Obtain permission to travel
in East Nepal—Arrangements—Coolies—Stores—Servants—Personal
equipment—Mode of travelling—Leave Dorjiling—Goong ridge—■
Behaviour of Bhotan coolies—Nepal frontier—Myong valley—Ham—
Sikkim massacre—Cultivation—Nettles—Camp at Nanki on Tonglo
—Bhotan coolies run away—View of Chumulari—Nepal peaks—
Sakkiazung—Hombills—Road to Wallanchoon—Scarcity of water—
Singular view of mountain-valleys—Encampment—My tent and its
furniture—Evening occupations—Dunkotah—Cross ridge of Sakkiazung—
Yews—Silver-firs—View of Tambur valley—Pemmi river—
Pebbly terraces—Holy springs—Enormous trees—Luculia gratissima
—Khawa river—Arrive at Tambur—Shingle and gravel terraces—
Natives, indolence of—Canoe ferry—Votive offerings—Bad road—
Temperature, &c.—Chingtam village, view from—Mywa river and
Guola—House—Boulders—Chain-bridge—Meepo, arrival of—-Fevers.
O w in g to the unsatisfactory nature of our relations
with the Sikkim authorities, to which I have elsewhere
alluded, my endeavours to procure leave to penetrate
further beyond the Dorjiling territory than Tonglo,
were attended with some trouble and delay.
In the autumn of 1848, the Governor-General communicated
with the Eajah, desiring him to grant me
honourable and safe escort through his dominions; but
this was at once met by a decided refusal, apparently
admitting of no compromise. Pending further négociations,
which Dr. Campbell felt sure would terminate