winter quarters, as at Loongtoong, the better classes
cultivate fine crops of buckwheat, millet, spinach, &c. ;
though seldom enough for their support, as in spring
they are obliged to buy rice from the inhabitants of
the lower regions. Equally dependent on Nepal and
Tibet, they very naturally hold themselves independent
of both ; and I found that my roving commission from
the Nepal Rajah was not respected, and my guard of
Ghorkas held very cheap.
On my arrival at Wallanchoon, I was conducted to
two tents, each about eight feet long, of yak’s hair,
striped blue and white, which had been pitched close
to the village for my accommodation. Though the best
that could be provided, and larger than my own, they
were wretched in the extreme, being of so loose a
texture that the wind blew through them : each was
formed of two cloths with a long slit between them,
that ran across the top, giving egress to the smoke, and
ingress to the weather : they were supported on two
short poles, kept to the ground by large stones, and
fastened by yak’s hair ropes. A fire was smoking
vigorously in the centre of one, and some planks were
laid at the end for my bed. A crowd of people soon
came to stare and loll out their tongues at me, my
party, and travelling equipage; though very civil, and
only offensive in smell, they were troublesome, from
their eager curiosity to see and handle everything; so
that I had to place a circle of stones round the tents,
whilst a soldier stood by, on the alert to keep them off.
A more idle people are not to be found, except with
regard to spinning, which is their constant occupation,
every man and woman carrying a bundle of wool in the
breast of their garments, which is spun by hand with a
spindle, and wound off on two cross-pieces at its lower
end. Spinning, smoking, and tea-drinking are their
chief pursuits; and the women take all the active
duties of the dairy and house. They live very happily
together, fighting being almost unknown.
Soon after my arrival I was waited on by the Guobah
(or head-man), a tall, good-looking person, dressed in a
purple woollen robe, with good pearl and coral ear and
finger rings, and a broad ivory ring over the left
thumb,* as a guard when using the bow; he wore a
neat thick white felt cap, with the border turned up,
and a silk tassel on the top; this he removed with both
hands and held before him, bowing three times on
entering. líe was followed by a crowd, some of whom
were his own people, and brought a present of a kid,
fowls, rice, and eggs, and some spikenard roots {Nardo
stachys Jatamansi, a species of valerian smelling
strongly of patchouli), which is a very favourite perfume.
After paying some compliments, he showed
me round the village. During my walk I found that I
had a good many objections to overrule before I could
proceed to the Wallanchoon pass, nearly two days’
journey to the northward. In the first place, the
Guobah disputed the Nepal Rajah’s authority to pass
me through his dominions; and besides the natural
jealousy of this people when intruded upon, they have
very good reasons for concealing the amount of revenue
* A broad ring of this material, agate, or chalcedony, is a mark of rank
here, as amongst the Man-choos, and throughout Central Asia.