horticultural to the liberality of the Hon. East India
Company, and to the energy of the several eminent
men who have carried their views into execution. The
Indian government itself, has already profited largely
by this garden, directly and indirectly, and might
have done so still more, had its efforts been better
seconded either by the European or native population
of the country. Amongst its greatest triumphs may
be considered the introduction of the tea-plant from
China, a fact I allude to, as many of my English
readers may not he aware that the establishment of the
tea-trade in the Himalaya and Assam is almost entirely
the work of the superintendents of the gardens of
Calcutta and Seharunpore.
From no one did I receive more kindness than from
Sir James Colvile, President of the Asiatic Society,
who not only took care that I should be provided with
every comfort, hut presented me with a completely
equipped palkee, which, for strength and excellence of
construction, was everything that a traveller could
desire. Often en route did I mentally thank him when
I saw other palkees breaking down, and travellers
bewailing the loss of those forgotten necessaries, with
which his kind attention had furnished me.
I left Calcutta to join Mr. Williams’ camp on the
28th of January, driving to Hoogly on the river of that
name, and thence following the grand trunk-road westward
towards Burdwan. The novelty of palkee-tra-
velling at first renders it pleasant: the neatness with
which everything is packed, the good-humour of the
hearers, their merry pace, and the many more comforts
than could be expected in a conveyance horsed by men,
the warmth when the sliding doors are shut, and the
breeze when they are open, are all fully appreciated on
first starting; hut soon the novelty wears off, and the
discomforts are so numerous, that it is pronounced, at
best, a barbarous conveyance. The greedy cry and
gestures of the bearers, when, on changing, they break
a fitful sleep by poking a torch in your face, and
vociferating “ Bucksheesh, Sahib;” their discontent at
the most liberal largesse, and the sluggishness of the
next set who want bribes, put the traveller out of
patience with the natives. The. dust when the slides
are open, and the stifling heat when shut during a
shower, are conclusive against the vehicle; and on
getting out with aching bones and giddy head at my
journey’s end, I shook off the dust, and wished never
to see a palkee again.
On the following morning I was passing through the
straggling villages close to Burdwan, consisting of
native hovels by the road side, with mangos and figs
planted near them, and palms waving over their roofs.
Crossing the nearly dry bed of the Damooda, I was set
down at Mr. MTntosh’s (the magistrate of the district),
and never more thoroughly enjoyed a hearty welcome
and a breakfast.
In the evening we visited the Rajah of Burdwan’s
palace and pleasure-grounds, where I had the first
glimpse of oriental gardening: the roads were generally
raised, running through rice fields, now dry and hard,
and bordered with trees of Jack, Bamboo, “ Pride of
India,” &c. Tanks were the prominent features: chains