juniper wood, smoking iron pipes with agate mouthpieces.
A resting-house was in sight across the stream
a loose stone hut, to which we repaired. I wondered
why these Tibetans had not taken possession of it, not
being then aware of the value they attach to a rock, on
account of the great warmth which it imbibes from the
sun’s rays during the day, and retains at night. This
invaluable property of otherwise inhospitable granite I
had afterwards many opportunities of proving ; and
when driven to such shelter as rude nature might
afford on the bleak mountain, I have had my blankets
laid beneath “ the shadow of a great rock in a weary
land.”
The name of Dhamersala is applied, in the mountains
as in the plains of India, to a house provided for the
accommodation of travellers, whether it be one of the
beautiful caravanserais built to gratify the piety, ostentation,
or benevolence of a rajah, or such a miserable
shieling as that of Tuquoroma, in which we took up
our quarters, at 13,000 feet elevation. A cheerful fire
soon blazed on the earthen floor, filling the room with
the pungent odour of juniper, which made our eyes
smart and water. The Ghorkas withdrew to one
comer, and my Lepchas to a second, while one end
was screened off for my couch; unluckily the wall
faced the north-east, and in that direction there was a
gulley in the snowy mountains, down which the wind
swept with violence, penetrating to my bed. I had
calculated upon a good night’s rest here, which I much
needed, having been worried and unwell at Wallan-
choon, owing to the Guobah’s obstinacy. I had not
then learnt how to treat such conduct, and just before
retiring to rest had further been informed by the
Havildar that the Guobah had declared we should find
no food on our return. To remain in these mountains
without a supply was impossible, and the delay of
sending to My wa Guola would not have answered; so
I long lay awake, occupied in arranging measures. The
night was clear and very cold; the thermometer falling
to 12° in the night.
On the following morning (Nov. 26th) I started with
a small party to visit the pass, continuing up the broad,
grassy valley; much snow lay on the ground, which had
fallen the previous month; and several glaciers were
seen in lateral ravines. After a couple of miles, we
struck northward up a narrow, stony, and steep gorge,
crossing an immense ancient moraine at its mouth.
This path, which we followed for seven or eight miles,
led up to the pass, winding considerably, and keeping
along the south-east exposures, which, being the most
sunny, are the freest from snow. The morning was
splendid, the atmosphere over the dry rocks and earth
vibrating from the power of the sun’s rays, while vast
masses of blue glacier and fields of snow choked every
gulley, and were spread over all shady places. Although,
owing to the steepness and narrowness of the gorge,
no view was obtained, the scenery was wild and very
grand. Just below perpetual snow, an ugly carved
head of a demon, with blood-stained cheeks and
goggle-eyes, was placed in a niche of rock, and protected
by a glass.
At 15,000 feet, the snow closed in on the path from