We slept at Nampok, and the following morning
commenced the ascent: on the way we passed the temple
and lake of Neongong. The latter is a mere pool, about
400 yards round, and has no outlet; it contained
two English plants, the common duckweed, and
Potamogeton natans: some coots were swimming in it,
and having flushed a woodcock, I sent for my gun, hut
the Lamas implored us not to shoot, it being contrary
to their creed to take life wantonly.
We left a great part of our baggage at Neongong, as
we intended to return there; and took with us bedding,
food, &c., for two days. A path hence up the mountain
is frequented once a year by the Lamas, who make
a pilgrimage to the top for worship. We met with
snow at the level of Dorjiling (7000 feet), indicating a
colder climate than at that station, where none had
fallen ; the vegetation was, however, similar, hut not
so rich, and at 8000 feet trees common also to the top
of Sincliul appeared, with Rhododendron Hodgsoni,
and a beautiful little winter-flowering primrose, whose
stemless flowers spread like broad purple stars on the
deep green foliage. Above, the path runs along the
ridge of the precipices facing the south-east, and here
we caught a glimpse of the great valley of the Ryott,
beyond the Teesta, with Tumloong, the Rajah s residence,
on its north flank, and the superb snowy peak
of Chola at its head.
One of our coolies, loaded with crockery and various
indispensables, had here a severe fall, and was much
bruised; he however recovered himself, hut not our
goods. At 9000 feet the snow became deep and
troublesome, so we encamped 800 feet below the top,
in a wood of Magnolia, Rhododendron, and bamboo ;
our beds being laid on a thick layer of rhododendron
twigs, bamboo, and masses of moss.
On the following morning we reached the summit after
an hour’s very laborious ascent, and took up our
quarters in a large wooden barn-like temple (goompa)
built on a stone-platform. The summit was very
broad, but the depth of the snow prevented our exploring
much, and the silver firs were so tall, that no
view could be obtained, except from the temple. The
great peak of Kinchinjunga is in part hidden by those
of Pundim and Nursing, but the panorama of snowy
mountains is very grand indeed. The effect is quite
deceptive; the mountains assuming the appearance of
a continuous chain, the distant snowy peaks being
seemingly at little further distance than the nearer
ones. The whole range appeared, to rise uniformly
and steeply out of black pine forests, which were
succeeded by russet-brown rhododendron, and that
again by tremendous precipices and gulleys, into which
descended mighty glaciers and perpetual snows. This
excessive steepness is however only apparent, being
due to foreshortening.
The upper 10,000 feet of Kinchin, and the tops of
Pundim, Kubra, and Junnoo, are evidently of granite,
and are rounded in outline: the lower peaks, on the
contrary, as those of Nursing, &c., present rugged pinnacles
of black and red rocks, in many cases resting on
white granite, to which they offer a remarkable contrast.
One range presented on every summit a cap of black