twilight, however, being prolonged by the glare of the
snow. Fearing the distance to Tuquoroma might be
too great to permit of our returning thither the same
night, I had had a few things brought up during the
day, and finding they had arrived, we encamped under
the shelter of some enormous boulders (at 13,500 feet);
part of an ancient moraine, which extended for some
distance along the narrow valley. Except an excruciating
headache, I felt no ill effects from my
ascent; and after a supper of tea and biscuit, I slept
soundly.
On the following morning the temperature was 28°
at sunnse, and rose to 30° when the sun appeared over
the mountains soon after 8 a .m . : the sky was brilliantly
clear, with a very dry, cold, north wind blowing down
the snowy valley of the pass.
d em o n ’s h e a d .
CHAPTER X.
Return from Wallanchoon pass—Procure a bazaar at village—Dance of .
Lamas—Temple and convent—Leave for Kanglachem pass—Send part
of party back to Dorjiling—Yangma Guola—Drunken Tibetans—
Guobah of Wallanchoon—Camp at foot of Great Moraine—View from
top—Geological speculations—Height of moraines—Cross dry lake-
bed—Glaciers—More moraines—Terraces—Yangma temples—Jos,
books and furniture—Peak of Nango—Arrive at village—Cultivation
—Scenery—Potatos—State of my provisions—Pass through village—
Gigantic boulders—Terraces—Wild sheep—Lake-beds—Sun’s power
—Piles of gravel and detritus—Glaciers and moraines—Pabuk, elevation
of—Moonlight scene—Return to Yangma—Temperature, &c.
—Geological causes of phenomena in valley—Scenery of valley on
descent.
I r e t u r n e d to the village of Wallanchoon, after
collecting all the plants I could around my camp; and,
on arriving at the village, I refused to receive the
Guobah, unless he opened a bazaar on the following
morning, where my people might purchase food; and
threatened to bring charges against him before his
Rajah. At the same time I arranged for sending the
main body of my party down the Tambur, and back to
Sikkim, whilst I should, with as few as possible, visit
the Kanglachem (Tibetan) pass in the adjacent valley
to the eastward, and then, crossing the Nango, Kam-
bachen and Kanglanamo passes, reach Jongri, in
Sikkim, on the south flank of Kinchinjunga.
VOL. I . L