V O Y A G E T O T H E
within. YVhether this irregularity be the consequence of unequal
growth, or of the original inclination of the foundation, is a question
that has excited much interest. All the islands we subsequently visited
were similar to these in having their weather or eastern side more
advanced than the opposite one. The outer side of the wall springs
from unfathomable depths; the inner descends with a slope to about
120 or 130 feet below’ the surface. This abruptness causes the sea to
break and expend its fury upon the reef without disturbing the waters
in the lagoon. The coral animals consequently rear their delicate
structure there without apprehension of violence; and form their submarine
grottoes in all the varied shapes which fancy can conceive.
They have already encircled each of the islands with a barrier, which
they are daily extending; and have reared knolls so closely as almost
to occupy all the northern part of the lagoon. More independent
tribes are in other parts bringing to the surfiice numerous isolated
columns, all tending to the same end; and all seems to be going on
with such activity, that a speculative imagination might picture to
itself at no very remote period, one vast plain covering the whole
surface of the lagoon, yielding forests of bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and
other trees, and ultimately sustenance to a numerous population, and
a variety of animals subservient to their use.
The general steepness of the volcanic islands of this groupe is such,
that the soil finds a resting-place on a comparatively small portion of
them - and on the coral islands it is scarcely deep and rich enough
exposed as it is to the sea air, to contribute much to the support of
man. A soil formed from the decomposition of the basaltic rocks, u n dated
by streams from the mountains, requires nothing but a due proportion
of care and labour on the part of the natives to render it very
productive. There is, however, a sad neglect in this respect, which is
the more extraordinary, as there are no quadrupeds or poultry on the
islands, and without vegetable productions the natives have only the
sea to depend upon for their subsistence. The wild productions are a
coarse grass ( Saccharim fatuum), which covers such parts of the mountains
as are neglected, or are too steep for cultivation. Lower down
we noticed the capparidia, a procumbent pentandrous shrub, the
nasturtium, sesuvium of Pitcairn Island, the eugenia, and scmvola CHAP.
koenlgii; and close down to the shore a convolvulus covering the
brown rock with its clusters of leaves and pink blossoms. The porou
and miroe (Thespesia popttlaria) were more abundant. The nono not
common. They must also have the auti and amai, as their weapons
are made of it, though we did not see it. The timber of which their
rafts are constructed is a red wood, somewhat porous, and of softer grain
than the amai. Some of these trunks are so large as at first to excite a
suspicion of their having been drifted from a more extensive shore;
but the quantity which they possess, several logs of which were newly
shaped out, affords every reason for believing that it is the produce of
their own valleys. They are not deficient in variety of edible fruits
and roots, nor in those kinds which are most productive and nutritious.
Besides the tee-plant, sweet potatoe, appe, sugar-cane, water-melon,
cocoa-nut, jilantain, and banana, they possess the bread-fruit, which
in Otaheite is the staff of life, and the taro, a root which in utility corresponds
with it in the Sandwich Islands. YV ere they to pay but a due
regard to the cultivation of the two last of these valuable productions,
an abundance of wholesome food might be substituted for the nauseous
mixture mahie, which, though it may, as indeed it does, support life,
cannot be said to do more. Kats and lizards were the only quadrupeds
we saw upon the islands. Of the feathered tribe, oceanic birds form
the greater part; but even these are rare, compared with the numbers
that usually frequent the islands of the Pacific, arising, no doubt, from
the Gambier Islands being inhabited. The whole consist of three kinds
of tern, the white, black, and slate-coloured—of which the first are most
numerous, and the last very scarce; together with a species of procellaria,
the white heron, and the tropic and egg birds. Those which frequent
the shore are a kind of pharmatopus, curlew, charadriiie, and totanus;
and the w'oods, the w’ood-pigeon, and a species of turdus, somewhat
resembling a thrush in plumage, but smaller, possessing a similar though
less harmonious note. The insects found here were very few, the common
house-fly excepted, which on almost all the inhabited islands in
the Pacific is extremely numerous and annoying. Of fish there is a
great variety, and many are extremely beautiful in colour; as well those
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