
 
		(ijl. 
 I l   i 
 ch ap .  Marsh  the purser, OYerland  to Monterey with  Mr. Evans as  interpreter,  
 with  orders  to  procure  for  the  ship what  medicines,  provisions,  and  
 18?6  stores  were  to  he  had,  and  to  negotiate  government  bills,  on 
 which  the  exchange was  far  more  favourable  there  than  at  the  Sandwich  
 Islands.  The  governor  politely  furnished a passport and  a guard  
 for  this  service ;  and  our  hospitable  friend  Tomaso,  the  padre  of  the  
 mission,  provided  horses  for  them  free  of  any  charge.  In  the mean  
 time we  arranged with a relation  of the  governor  for  the  daily  supply  
 of the ship’s  company, an arrangement which  it  afterwards  appeared  increased  
 the jealousy that had  long  existed between  the presidio and the  
 missions,  by transferring  to  the  pocket  of the  commandant  the profits  
 that would  otherwise  have  been  reaped by  the  padre. 
 AA"e were happy to  find  the  country around our  anchorage abounding  
 in  game  of  all kinds,  so  plentiful,  indeed,  as  soon  to  lessen  the  desire  
 of pursuit;  still  there  were many  inducements  to  both  the  officers  
 and seamen  to  land and  enjoy  themselves;  and  as  it was for  the benefit  
 of the service that  they should recruit their health and strength as  soon  
 as possible, every facility was afforded them. Horses were fortunately very  
 cheap, from nine shillings to seven pounds apiece, so that riding became a  
 favourite amusement;  and the Spaniards finding they could make a  good  
 market  by letting  out  their  stud, appeared with  them every Sunday opposite  
 the  ship,  ready saddled for the  occasion,  as  this  was  a  day  on  
 which  I allowed every man  to go  out  of the^ship.  Some of the  officers  
 purchased  horses  and  tethered  them  near  the  place,  but  the  Spaniards  
 finding  this  to  interfere with  their market,  contrived  to  let  them  loose  
 on  the  Saturday  night,  in  order  that  the  officers might  be  compelled  
 to hire others on  the following day.  The only difficulty to the enjoyment  
 of this  amusement was the  scarcity of saddles and bridles, some  of which  
 cost ten  times  as  much  as  a  decent  horse.  The  ingenuity  of the  seamen  
 generally  obviated  these difficulties, while  some borrowed or hired  
 saddles  of the.natives ;  for my  own  part,  I purchased  a  decent  looking  
 horse  for  about  thirty-five  shillings  sterling,  and  on my departure presented  
 it  to  a Spaniard, who had  lent  me  the necessary  accoutrements  
 for  it  during  my  stay,  which  answered  the  purpose  of  both  parties,  
 as  he  was  pleased with  his  present,  and  I  had  my  ride  for  about  a 
 shilling  a day:  a useful  hint  to  persons who  may  be  similarly  circum-  C H A P . 
 Such  of  the  seamen  as  would  not  venture  on  horseback  made  
 parties  to visit  the  presidio and mission, where  they  found  themselves  
 welcome guests with the  Spanish  soldiers.  These  two places were  the  
 only buildings  within  many miles  of us,  and  they  fortunately  supplied  
 just  enough  spirits  to  aUow  the people  to  enjoy  themselves with their  
 friends, without  indulging  in  much  excess—a very  great  advantage  in  
 a seaport. 
 The  roads  leading  to  these  two  great  places  of  attraction  in  a  
 short  time became well beaten,  and  that  to  the mission  very much  improved, 
  by having  the boughs  removed which  before  overhung it.  It  
 was  at  first  in  contemplation  to hire  a  Spaniard  to  lop  them, but  our  
 pioneers, who  stopped at nothing, soon  tore  them  all  away, except  one,  
 a large  stump, which  resisted every attack,  and unhorsed  several  of its  
 assailants. 
 Martinez  was  always  glad  to  see  the  officers  at  the  presidio,  and  
 made  them  welcome  to  what  he  had.  Indeed,  nothing  seemed  to  
 give him greater  pleasure  than  our partaking  of his family dinner;  the  
 greater  part  of which  was  dressed  by  his  wife  and  daughters,  ivho  
 prided  themselves  on  their proficiency  in  the  art  of cooking.  It was  
 not,  however,  entirely  for  the  satisfaction  of  in-esenting  us  with  a  
 well-prepared  repast  that  they were  induced  to  indulge in  this humble  
 occupation;  poor Martinez,  besides  his  legitimate  offspring,  had  
 eighteen  others  to provide  for  out  of his  salary, which was  then  eleven  
 ye"ars  in  arrears.  He  had  a  sorry  prospect  before  him,  as,  a  short  
 time  previous  to  our  visit,  the  government,  by  way  of  paying  up  
 these  arrears,  sent a brig with  a  cargo  of paper  cigars  to  be  issued  to  
 the  troops  in  lieu  of dollars;  but,  as Martinez  justly  observed,  cigars  
 would not  satisfy  the families  of the  soldiers,  and  the  compromise  was  
 refused.  The  cargo  was,  however,  landed  at Monterey  and  placed  
 under the charge of the governor, where all other tobacco is contraband ;  
 and  as  the  Spaniards  are  fond  of  smoking,  it  stands  a  finr  chance,  in  
 the  course  of time,  of answering  the  intention  of the government,  particularly  
 as  the  troops  apply  for  these  ofteiier  than  they  otherwise 
 Nov. 
 1826. 
 - 1 
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