11
r !i:
C H A P . the tendency the ice must have towards tlie edge of the cliff; and I
7 1 7 doubt the beds of ice are occasionally loosened, and fall upon
the beach, where, if they are not carried away by the sea, they become
covered with the earthy materials from above, and perhaps remain some
time immured. In some places the cliff was undermined, and the surface
in general was very rugged; hut it was evident in this, as in the
former instance, that the ice was lodged in hollow places in the cliff.
While we continued here we had an example of the manner in which
the face of the cliff might obtain an icy covering similar to that in Escholtz
Bay. There had been a sharp frost during the night, which
froze a number of small streams that were trickling down the face of
the cliff, and eased those parts of it with a sheet of ice, which, if the
oozings from the cliff and the freezing process were continued, would
without doubt form a thick coating to it.
Upon the beach, under the cliffs, there was an abundance of drift
birch and pine wood, among wliich there was a fir-tree three feet in
diameter. This tree, and another, which, by the appearance of its bark,
had been recently torn up by the roots, had been washed up since our
visit to this spot in J u ly ; but from wlience they came we could not
even form a conjecture, as we had frequently remarked the absence of
floating timber both in the sound and in the strait.
We found some natives at this place laying out their nets for seals,
W’ho, perceiving we were about to take up our quarters near them,
struck their tents expeditiously, threw every thing into their baidars, to
which they harnessed their dogs, and drove off for about half a mile, where
they encamped again. YVe procured from them about two bushels of
whortle berries, which they had collected for their own consumption,
and learnt that they had been unsuccessful in fishing. YY"e noticed
that at their meals they stripped their dried fish of its skin and gave it
to the w’omen and children, who ate it very contentedly, w'hile the
men regaled themselves upon the flesh.
During the night we had a brilliant display of the aurora borealis,
remarkable for its masses of bright light. It extended from N. E. to
YY"., and at one time formed three arches. As we were taking our
departure w’e were visited by a baidar, from which we procured some
fine fresh salmon and trout. The coxswain of this boat wore unusually CHAP
large labrets, consisting of blue glass beads fixed upon circular pieces ,--------
of ivory, a full inch in diameter. He drew us a chart of Hotham Inlet,
Sqit.
1826.
W'hich'resembled one that had been traced upon the beach by some
natives the day before; both of which represented it as an arm of the sea
in the form of an hour-glass, which was not far from the truth. The Esquimaux
seem to have a natural talent for such delineations; and though
their outlines may serve no essential purpose of navigation, they are still
useful in pointing out the nature of a place that has not been visite ;
an information which may sometimes save a useless journey. It is,
however, to be observed, that not unfrequently they appear to trace the
route which a boat can pursue, rather than the indentations of the
coast, by which rivers and bays not frequented would be overlooked.
Such charts are further useful in marking the dwellings and fishing
stations of the natives.
From hence we bore away to examine Hotham Inlet, and found it
so encumbered with shoals that it was necessary to run seven miles off
the land to avoid striking upon them ; it had but one small entrance,
so very narrow and intricate, that the boats grounded repeatedly in
pursuing it. In the middle of the channel there were only five feet
water at half-flood; and the tide ebbed so strong through it, that the
boat could not stem i t ; and as there was but a small part of the coast oi
this inlet that we had not seen, and finding the examination of it would
be attended with difficulty, and would occupy a long time, the boats did
not ascend it. The shoal which is off the entrance has no good landmarks
for i t ; the bearings from its extremity in two fathoms and a halt
of water are Cape Blossom, S. 66" 40' E. (true); YVestern High Mount,
N 17’ 30'YV. (true); and the west extreme, a bluff cape, near Cape
Krasenstern, N . 37° 0' YV. (true). But the best way to avoid it is to
go about directly the soundings decrease to six fathoms; as after that
depth they shoal so rapidly to two fathoms and a quarter that there is
scarcely room to put the ship round.
On the 1st of October we landed upon a sandy point at the western
limit of the inlet, and w’ere joined by a few Esquimaux who had their
tents not fiir off to the westward; they had communicated with the boat
u u 2
Oct.