autumn, when these animals return from the north. As to myself, every
thing eatable is good, and when hard pushed, I assure you I can relish
the fare of my dogs just as much as they do themselves.,,
Proceeding along the rugged indentations of the bay with my companions,
I reached the settlement of another person, who, like the first, had
come to Labrador with the view of making his fortune. We found him
after many difficulties; but as our boats turned a long point jutting
out into the bay, we were pleased to see several small schooners at
anchor, and one lying near a sort of wharf. Several neat-looking houses
enlivened the view, and on landing, we were kindly greeted with a polite
welcome from a man who proved to be the owner of the establishment.
For the rude simplicity of him of the rum-cask, we found here the manners
and dress of a man of the world. A handsome fur cap covered his
dark brow, his clothes were similar to our own, and his demeanour was
that of a gentleman. On my giving my name to him, he shook me heartily
by the hand, and on introducing each of my companions to him, he
extended the like courtesy to them also. Then, to my astonishment, he
addressed me as follows:—" My dear Sir, I have been expecting you
these three weeks, having read in the papers your intention to visit Labrador,
and some fishermen told me of your arrival at Little Natasguan.
Gentlemen, walk in.1'
Having followed him to his neat and comfortable mansion, he introduced
us to his wife and children. Of the latter there were six, all robust
and rosy. The lady, although a native of the country, was of French
extraction, handsome, and sufficiently accomplished to make an excellent
companion to a gentleman. A smart girl brought us a luncheon, consisting
of bread, cheese, and good port wine, to which, having rowed
fourteen or fifteen miles that morning, we helped ourselves in a manner
that seemed satisfactory to all parties. Our host gave us newspapers
from different parts of the world, and shewed us his small but choice collection
of books. He inquired after the health of the amiable Captain
BAYFIELD of the Royal Navy, and the officers under him, and hoped
they would give him a call.
Having refreshed ourselves, we walked out with him, when he pointed
to a very small garden, where a few vegetables sprouted out, anxious to see
the sun. Gazing on the desolate country around, I asked him how he had
thus secluded himself from the world. For it he had no relish, and although
he had received a liberal education, and had mixed with society, he never
intended to return to it. " The country around," said he, " is all my
own, much farther than you can see. No fees, no lawyers, no taxes are
here. I do pretty much as I choose. My means are ample, through my
own industry. These vessels come here for seal-skins, seal-oil, and salmon,
and give me in return all the necessaries, and indeed comforts, of
the life I love to follow; and what else could the world afford me F I
spoke of the education of his children. " My wife and I teach them all
that is icseful for them to know, and is not that enough ? My girls will
marry their countrymen, my sons the daughters of my neighbours, and I
hope all of them will live and die in the country !" I said no more, but
by way of compensation for the trouble I had given him, purchased from
his eldest child a beautiful fox's skin.
Few birds, he said, came around him in summer, but hi winter thousands
of ptarmigans were killed, as well as great numbers of gulls. He
had a great dislike to all fishermen and eggers, and I really believe was
always glad to see the departure even of the hardy navigators who annually
visited him for the sake of his salmon, seal-skins, and oil. He had
more than forty Esquimaux dogs; and, as I was caressing one of them,
he said, " Tell my brother-in-law at Bras-d'Or, that we are all well here,
and that, after visiting my wife's father, I will give him a call V
Now, reader, his wife's father resided at the distance of seventy miles
down the coast, and, like himself, was a recluse. He of Bras d'Or was at
double that distance ; but, when the snows of winter have thickly covered
the country, the whole family, in sledges drawn by dogs, travel with
ease, and pay their visits, or leave their cards. This good gentleman had
already resided there more than twenty years. Should he ever read this
article, I desire him to believe that I shall always be grateful to him and
his wife for their hospitable welcome.
When our schooner, the Ripley, arrived at Bras d'Or, I paid a visit
to Mr , the brother-in-law, who lived in a house imported from Quebec,
which fronted the strait of Belle Isle, and overlooked a small island,
over which the eye reached the coast of Newfoundland, whenever it was
the wind's pleasure to drive away the fogs that usually lay over both
coasts. The gentleman and his wife, we were told, were both out on a
walk, but would return in a very short time, which they in fact did, when
we followed them into the house, which was yet unfinished. The usual immense
Dutch stove formed a principal feature of the interior. The lady
had once visited the metropolis of Canada, and seemed desirous of acting