groups of people assembled round it, but there no dinner could be obtained,
because, as the landlord told us, an election was going on. So the
basket was had recourse to, and on the green sward we refreshed ourselves
with its contents. This done, we returned to the scow, and resumed
our stations. As usual in such cases, in every part of the world that I
have visited, our second set of horses was worse than the first. However,
on we went. To tell you how often the tow-line gave way, would not be
more amusing to you than it was annoying to us. Once our commander
was in consequence plunged into the stream, but after some exertion, he
succeeded in regaining his gallant bark, when he consoled himself by
giving utterance to a volley of blasphemies, which it would as ill become
me to repeat as it would be disagreeable to you to hear. We slept somewhere
that night; it does not suit my views of travelling to tell you
where.
Before day returned to smile on the Favourite, we proceeded. Some
rapids we came to, when every one, glad to assist her, leaped on shore,
and tugged a la cordelle. Some miles farther we passed a curious cataract,
formed by the waters of the Pokioke. There Sambo led his steeds
up the sides of a high bank, when, lo ! the whole party came tumbling
down, like so many hogsheads of tobacco rolled from a storehouse to the
banks of the Ohio. He at the steering oar hoped " the black rascal"
had broken his neck, and congratulated himself in the same breath for
the safety of the horses, which presently got on their feet. Sambo, however,
alert as an Indian chief, leaped on the naked back of one, and,
shewing his teeth, laughed at his master's curses. Shortly after this we
found our boat very snugly secured on the top of a rock, midway in the
stream, just opposite the mouth of Eel River.
Next day at noon, none injured, but all chop-fallen, we were landed
at Woodstock village, yet in its infancy. After dining there, we procured
a cart and an excellent driver, and proceeded along an execrable
road towards Houlton in Maine, glad enough, after all our mishaps, at
finding ourselves in our own country. But before I bid farewell to the
beautiful river of St John, I must tell you, that its navigation seldom exceeds
eight months each year, the passage during the rest being performed
on the ice, of which we were told that last season there was an unusual
quantity, so much, indeed, as to accumulate, by being jammed at particular
spots, to the height of nearly fifty feet above the ordinary level of
the river, and that when it broke loose in spring, the crash was awful.
All the low grounds along the river were suddenly flooded, and even
the elevated plain on which Frederickton stands was covered to the
depth of four feet. Fortunately, however, as on the greater streams of
the Western and Southern Districts, such an occurrence seldom takes
place.
Major CLARKE, commander of the United States garrison, received
us with remarkable kindness. The next day was spent in a long though
fruitless ornithological excursion, for although we were accompanied by
officers and men from the garrison, not a bird did any of our party procure
that was of any use to us. We remained a few days, however, after
which, hiring a cart, two horses, and a driver, we proceeded in the direction
of Bangor.
Houlton is a neat village, consisting of some fifty houses. The fort
is well situated, and commands a fine view of Mar's Hill, which is about
thirteen miles distant. A custom-house has been erected here, the place being
on the boundary line of the United States and the British Provinces.
The road which was cut by the soldiers of this garrison, from Bangor to
Houlton, through the forests, is at this moment a fine turnpike, of gnat
breadth, almost straight in its whole length, and perhaps the best now in
the Union. It was incomplete, however, for some miles, so that our travelling
over that portion was slow and disagreeable. The rain, which fell in
torrents, reduced the newly raised earth to a complete bed of mud, and at
one time our horses became so completely mired, that had we not been
extricated by two oxen, we must have spent the night near the spot.
Jogging along at a very slow pace, we were overtaken by a gay waggoner,
who had excellent horses, two of which a little " siller1' induced him to
join to ours, and we were taken to a tavern at the " Cross Roads,1' where
we spent the night in comfort. W7hile supper was preparing, I made
inquiries respecting birds, quadrupeds, and fishes, and was pleased to hear
that all these animals abounded in the neighbourhood. Deer, bears,
trouts, and grouse were quite plentiful, as was the Great Grey Owl !
When we resumed our journey next morning, Nature displayed all
her loveliness; and Autumn, with her mellow tints, her glowing fruits,
and her rich fields of corn, smiled in placid beauty. Many of the fields
had not yet been reaped, the fruits of the forests and orchards hung
clustering around us, and as we came in view of the Penobscot River, our
hearts thrilled with joy. Its broad transparent waters here spread out
their unruffled surface, there danced along the rapids, while canoes filled