with Indians swiftly glided in every direction, raising before them the
timorous waterfowl that had already flocked in from the north. Mountains,
which you well know are indispensable in a beautiful landscape,
reared their majestic crests in the distance. The Canada Jay leaped
gaily from branch to twig; the Kingsfisher, as if vexed at being suddenly
surprised, rattled loudly as it swiftly flew off; and the Fish Hawk and
Eagle spread their broad wings over the waters. All around was beautiful,
and we gazed on the scene with delight, as seated on a verdant bank,
we refreshed our frames from our replenished stores. A few rare birds
were procured here, and the rest of the road being level and firm, we
trotted on at a good pace for several hours, the Penobscot keeping company
with us.
Now we came to a deep creek of which the bridge was undergoing
repairs, and the people saw our vehicle approach with much surprise.
They however assisted us with pleasure, by placing a few logs across,
along which our horses one after the other were carefully led, and the
cart afterwards carried. These good fellows were so averse to our recompensing
them for their labour, that after some altercation we were obliged
absolutely to force what we deemed a suitable reward upon them.
Next day we continued our journey along the Penobscot, the country
changing its aspect at every mile, and when we first descried Old Town,
that village of saw-mills looked like an island covered with manufactories.
The people here are noted for their industry and perseverance, and any
one possessing a mill, and attending to his saws and the floating of the
timber into his dams, is sure to obtain a competency in a few years.
Speculations in land covered with pine, lying to the north of this place,
are carried on to a great extent, and to discover a good tract of such
ground many a miller of Old Town undertakes long journeys. Reader,
with your leave, I will here introduce one of them.
Good luck brought us into acquaintance with Mr GILLIES, whom we
happened to meet in the course of our travels, as he was returning from
an exploring tour. About the first of August he formed a party of sixteen
persons, each carrying a knapsack and an axe. Their provisions consisted
of 2 5 0 pounds of pilot bread, 150 of salted pork, 4 of tea, 2 large
loaves of sugar, and some salt. They embarked in light canoes, twelve
miles north of Bangor, and followed the Penobscot as far as Wassataquoik
River, a branch leading to the north-west, until they reached the
ebooi s Lakes, the principal of which lie in a line, with short portages
between them. Still proceeding north-west, they navigated these lakes,
and .then turning west, carried their canoes to the great lake " Baamchenunsgamook;"
thence north to Wallaghasquegantook Lake, then along
a small stream to the upper Umsaskiss Pond, when they reached the Albagash
River, which leads into the St John's, in about latitude 47° 3'.
Many portions of that country had not been visited before even by the
Indians, who assured Mr GILLIES of this fact. They continued their
travels down the St John's to the Grand Falls, where they met with a
portage of half a mile, and having reached Meduxmekeag Creek, a little
above Woodstock, the party walked to Houlton, having travelled twelve
hundred miles, and described almost an oval over the country by the time
they returned to Old Town, on the Penobscot. .
While anxiously looking for " lumber lands," they ascended the
eminences around, then climbed the tallest trees, and by means of a good
telescope, inspected the pine woods in the distance. And such excellent
judges are these persons of the value of the timber which they thus observe,
when it is situated at a convenient distance from water, that they
never afterwards forget the different spots at all worthy of their attention.
They had observed only a few birds and quadrupeds, the latter principally
porcupines. The borders of the lakes and rivers afforded them
fruits of various sorts, and abundance of cranberries, while the uplands
yielded plenty of wild white onions, and a species of black plum. Some
of the party continued their journey in canoes down the St John's, ascended
Eel River, and the lake of the same name, to Matanemheag
River, due southwest of the St John's, and after a few portages fell into
the Penobscot.
I had made arrangements to accompany Mr GILLIES on a journey of
this kind, when I judged it would be more interesting as well as useful
to me to visit the distant country of Labrador.
The road which we followed from Old Town to Bangor was literally
covered with Penobscot Indians returning from market. On reaching
the latter beautiful town, we found very comfortable lodging in an excellent
hotel; and next day we proceeded by the mail to Boston.