which we had undergone, and the privations which we had suffered; and,
as the Ripley steered her course into a snug harbour that suddenly
opened to our view, the number of vessels that were anchored there, and a
pretty village that presented itself, increased our delight.
Although the sun was fast approaching the western horizon when our
anchor was dropped, no sooner were the sails furled than we all went
ashore. There appeared a kind of curious bustle among the people, as if
they were anxious to know who we were, for our appearance, and that of
our warlike looking schooner, shewed that we were not fishermen. As
we bore our usual arms and hunting accoutrements, which were half'
Indian and half civilized, the individuals we met on the shore manifested
considerable suspicion, which our captain observing, instantlv made a
signal, when the star-spangled banner glided to the mast-head, and
saluted the flags of France and Britain in kindly greeting. We were
welcomed and supplied with abundance of fresh provisions. Glad at once
more standing on something like soil, we passed through the village, and
walked round it, but as night was falling, were quickly obliged to return
to our floating home, where, after a hearty supper, we serenaded with
repeated glees the peaceful inhabitants of the village.
At early dawn I was on deck, admiring the scene of industry that
presented itself. The harbour was already covered with fishing-boats,
employed in procuring mackerel, some of which we appropriated to ourselves.
Signs of cultivation were observed on the slopes of the hills, the
trees seemed of goodly size, a river made its way between two ranges of
steep rocks, and here and there a group of Mickmack Indians were
searching along the shores for lobsters, crabs, and eels, all of which we
found abundant and delicious. A canoe laden with rein-deer meat came
alongside, paddled by a pair of athletic Indians, who exchanged their
cargo for some of our stores. You would have been amused to see the
manner in which these men, and their families on shore, cooked the lobsters
: they threw them alive into a great wood-fire; and, as soon as they
were broiled, devoured them while yet so hot that any of us could not
have touched them. When properly cooled, I tasted these roasted lobsters,
and found them infinitely better flavoured than boiled ones. The
country was represented as abounding in game. The temperature was
higher, by twenty degrees, than that of Labrador, and yet I was told
that the ice of the bay seldom broke up before the middle of May, and
1
that few vessels attempted to go to Labrador before the 10th of June,
when the cod-fishery at once commences.
One afternoon we were visited by a deputation from the inhabitants of
the village, inviting our whole party to a ball which was to take place
that night, and requesting us to take with us our musical instruments.
We unanimously accepted the invitation, which had been made from
friendly feelings; and finding that the deputies had a relish for " old
Jamaica,1' we helped them pretty freely to some, which soon shewed that
it had lost nothing of its energies by having visited Labrador. At ten
o'clock, the appointed hour, we landed, and were lighted to the dancing
hall by paper lanterns, one of us carrying a flute, another a violin, and I
with a flageolet stuck into my waistcoat pocket.
The hall proved nothing else than the ground floor of a fisherman's
house. We were presented to his wife, who, like her neighbours, was an
adept in the piscatory art. She curtseyed, not a la Taglioni, it is true,
but with a modest assurance, which to me was quite as pleasing as the
airiness with which the admired performer just mentioned might have
paid her respects. The good woman was rather unprepared, and quite
en negligee, as was the apartment, but full of activity, and anxious to
arrange things in becoming style. In one hand she held a bunch of candles,
in the other a lighted torch, and distributing the former at proper
intervals along the walls, she applied the latter to them in succession.
This done, she emptied the contents of a large tin vessel into a number
of glasses which were placed in a tea-tray on the only table in the room.
The chimney, black and capacious, was embellished with coffee-pots,
milk-jugs, cups and saucers, knives and forks, and all the paraphernalia
necessary on so important an occasion. A set of primitive wooden stools
and benches was placed around, for the reception of the belles of the village,
some of whom now dropped in, flourishing in all the rosy fatness
produced by an invigorating northern climate, and in decoration vying
with the noblest Indian queen of the west. Their stays seemed ready to
burst open, and their shoes were equally pressed, so full of sap were the
arctic beauties. Around their necks, brilliant beads, mingled with ebony
tresses, and their naked arms might have inspired apprehension had they
not been constantly employed in arranging flowing ribbons, gaudy
flowers, and muslin flounces.
Now arrived one of the beaux, just returned from the fishing, who,
knowing all, and being equally known, leaped without ceremony on the