t r a v e l s i n t o 'r u s s i a .
1 ^ *
book miffion. The only ceremony neceffary to be obferved on
_J^l_,this occalion was to make inquiry in the morning i f the
matter of the houfe dined at home ; and i f he did, we,
without further ceremony, prefented ourfelves at his table.
The oftener we appeared at thefe hofpitable boards, the more
acceptable guefts we were efteemed ; and we always feemed
to confer, inftead of receiving, an obligation.
The tables were ferved with great profuiion and tafte.
Though the Ruffians have adopted the delicacies of French
cookery, yet they neither affectt to defpife their native diffies,
nor fqueamiihly reject the folid joints which characterize our
repafts. The plaineft, as well as the choiceft viands, were
collected from the moft diftant quarters: I have frequently
feen at the fame time fterlet from the Volga, veal
from Archangel, mutton from Aftrachan, beef from the
Ukraine, and pheafants from Hungary and Bohemia. Their
common wines are chiefly claret, Burgundy, and Champaigne,
and I never tatted Engliih beer and porter in greater perfection
and abundance. Before dinner, even in the houfes
of perfons of the firft diftinCtion, a fmall table is fpread in a
corner of the drawing room, covered with plates o f caviare,
dried and pickled nerrings, fmoked ham or tongue, bread,
butter, and cheefe, together with bottles of different liqueurs',
and few of the company of either fex omitted a prelude of
this kind to the main entertainment. This praCtice has induced
many travellers to relate, that the Ruffians fwallow
bowls of brandy before dinner. What are the ufages o f the
vulgar in this particular I cannot determine; but among the
nobility I never obferved the leaft violation of the moft extreme
fobriety : and this cuftom of taking liqueur before
dinner, coniidering the extreme fmallnefs of the glaffes ufed
on this occalion, is a very innocent refreihment, and will
not
P E T E R S B U R G H. ^
not convey the fainteft idea of fuccefs. Indeed the Ruffians c h a p .
in no other wife differ from the French in this inftance, th a n ^ C - ,
that they tafte a glafs of liqueur before their repaft, while the
latter defer it till after dinner
The ufual hour of dining is at three: their entertainments
are moftly regulated according to the French ceremonial,
the wine being circulated during meals ; and the diihes
are no fooner removed than the company retire from table
into another room, and are immediately ferved with coffee.
Nor do the gentlemen, as in England, continue wedded to the
bottle, while the ladies withdraw into a feparate apartment.
3 Several of the nobility alfo receive company every evening
in the moft eafy manner : the parties ufually met about
feven; fome fat down to whift, macao, loo, and other games,
fome converfed, and others danced. Amid the refreihments
tea was handed round no lefs frequently than in England.
At ten fupper was . brought in, and the party generally
broke up between eleven and twelve. It is no exaggeration
to fay, that, during our continuance in this city, not one
evening pafled but we had it in our power to attend an
affembly of this fort; and i f we had always frequented
■ the fame, we ffiould always have found the greateft:
cordiafity of leception. From thefe circumftances there is
perhaps no metropolis in Europe, excepting Vienna, which
is rendered more agreeable to foreigners than Peteriburgh.
The houies of the'nobility are furniihed with great elegance,
and the fuite of apartments in which they receive
company is uncommonly fplendid. I They are fitted up in
the ftyle of London and Paris, and the new faihions make
their appearance as foon as in thofe two capitals.
I have, on a former occafion, defcribed the modes of fa-
lutation pracftifed by the peafants and common people • I
Vol. I. T t t ^