book a better fo il, an d th e c o u n t r y m o re d iv e r iif ie d . The road
II. „
. . . . was not unpleafant, running through fields fown with different
fpecies of corn, hemp, and fla x ; but we never loft
light of the foreft, and always faw it ildrtiug the horizon.
In many places I obferved the wood encroaching upon the
fields, and young tree's fhooting up in great numbers where-
ever cultivation had been negledted. I was informed that
this is the cafe in moil parts of Poland, many traces of former
enclofures, and even the veftiges of paved ftreets, being dif-
cernible in the centre of the forefls.
The largefl place We paired through was Bielfk, capital of
the palatinate of Podalachia, where the diefine for the dif-
tridl is held : it is little better than a miferable village, though
called, in the geographical defcriptions of Poland, a large
town. Between Bielfk and Woytfzi our wheel was nearly
taking fire, and while we flopped at a fmall village to have it
greafed, I entered feveral Cottages, which I found infinitely
worfe evefi than thofe wretched dwellings which 1 had before
examined in the towns where the inhabitants were more free;
in the latter we obferved furniture and fome conveniences
in thefe nothing but the bare walls. The peafants Were perfect
flaves, and their habitations and appearance correfponded
with their miferable fituation : I could fcarcely have figured
to myfelf fuch objedts of poverty and mifery. The country
we traverfed from Warfaw to Bialliftock was in general
fandy ; but in fome places, the foil was very rich. All parts
were fit for cultivation, and many fpots had the appearance
of great fertility. We remarked, however, that the harveft,
even in the moil fruitful tradls, was but indifferent; a cir-
cufnftance evidently owing to the defedl in hufbandry.
We arrived late in the evening at Bialliftock, a very neat
and well-built town. The ftreets were broad, and the houfes,
which
which were in general plaiftered, flood detached from each c hap.
other at uniform diftances. The fuperior neatnefs of Bial- ■ . ' .
liftock is owing to the illuftrious family of Branifki, whofe
palace Hands clofe to the town, and who have contributed to
ornament their place of refidence. It belongs to the countefs
Branifki, filler of the prefent king, and widow of the late
great general Branifki; who, notwithftanding this alliance,
warmly protefted againft the eleition of his prefent majefty.
The morning after our arrival, the countefs, to whom we
had a letter from prince Staniflaus Poniatoufki, honoured us
with a moil polite invitation to dinner, and fent her carriage
to convey us to the palace. We were moil politely received
by our noble hoftefs, and were convinced from her amiable
manners, condefcending behaviour, and lively flow of con-
verfation, that affability and good fenfe are natural to the
family of Poniatowfki.
We found a large company aflembled at table, whom the
countefs had invited to partake of her hofpitable board,
which was elegantly fupplied with every delicacy. Among
other topics, the converfaffon turned upon our mode o f travelling
through a country fo poor and wretched, and fo deficient
in comfortable accommodations. “ I fuppofe,” faid a
Poliih gentleman, “ you carry your beds with y o u t o
which we replied in the negative. “ How do you fleep then?”
■“ Upon ftravr, when we can get it .; and, when we are not fo
“ fortunate, upon the floor, upon a bench, or upon a table.”
“ You take your provifions,” returned the Pole.— p Very
“ feldom.”— “ How do you liyethen ?”■— “ Upon what we
can procure : one of our fervants is fent before, and generally
contrives to obtain fome kind of proyiiion, which
b e may