B°i?.K Paffes by Smoleniko and Mohilef, feparates the Ukraine from
— v— ■ Poland, flows by Kiof, and falls into the black-fea between
Otzakof and Kinburn. By the acquifition o f the province
o f Mohilef, its whole courfe is now included within the Ruffian
territories. It begins to b e navigable at a little diftance
above Smoleniko, though in fome feafons o f the year it is fo
fliallow near the town, that the goods muft be tranfported
upon rafts and fmall flat-bottomed boats.
Having occafion for a new paffport and an order for horfes
we called upon the governor, accompanied by a Ruffian
ftudent, who fpoke Latin, for our interpreter. T h e governor
being at church, we repaired to the cathedral, where we
waited until divine fervice was concluded. T h e cathedral
is a ftately building, ereCted -upon the fpot where formerly
flood the palace o f th e ancient dukes o f Smoleniko. The
infide walls are covered with coarfe paintings reprefenting
our Saviour, the Virgin, and a variety o f Saints, which are
ve ry abundant in the Greek religion. T h e ihrine, or
fanCtuary, into which only the priefts are admitted, is fepa-
rated from the body o f the church by a ikreen with lame
folding doors, and is-ornamented with twilled pillars o f the
Corinthian order richly carved and gilded. T h e worffiip
feemed to confifl o f innumerable ceremonies: the people
crofted themfelves without ceafing; bowed towards the
ihrine and to each other, and even touched the ground with
their heads. T h e biihop o f Smoleniko performed the fervice
; a venerable figure, with white flowing hair and long
beard ; he had a crown upon his head, and was dreffed in
rich epifcopal robes. T h e folding doors were occafioiially
opened and clofed with great.pomp and folemnity whenever
the biihop retired within, or came forth to blefs the people:
at the conclufion o f the fervice, the doors being thrown open,
the
the biihop advanced forward with a candleftick in each hand, chap.
one containing three, and the other two lighted candles ; 1
which he repeatedly croffed over each other in different directions
; then waving them towards the audience, he concluded
with a final benediction. Thefe candlefticks, as I
am informed, are f ym b o lic a lo n e alludes to the Trinity,,
and the other to the two natures o f Chrift.
The fervice being finiihed, we prefented ourfelves to the
governor, who, to our furprize, received us with an air o f
coldnefs, which made fuch an impreffion on our interpreter,,
that he could not be perfuaded to utter a fingle word. At:
length a gentleman in the governor’s train accofted us in:
French, and inquired our bufinefs. Upon our,informing'
him, that we were Engliih gentlemen who defired a paff-
port, and- an order for horfes, he told, us with a fmile, that,
the plainnefs o f our dreffes had raifed a, fufpicion o f o u t
being tradefmen.; but he was not ignorant that Engliih gentlemen
feldom. wore dace on their clothes,, or fwords in a
journey ; an intimation which recalled to our memory the-
advice o f our Poliili friend at Minik * . He then whifpered
the governor,, who inftantly affirmed an appearance o f complacency,
and teftified by his gefture an intention o f complying
with his requeft. This matter was fcarcely adjufted, wh en
the biihop joined the company he had laid afide the coftly
garments, in which he performed the fervice, and was dreffed
in a long black robe, a round black cap, and veil o f the fame
colour. He addrefied us in Latin, and, invited us to his.
lioufe. He led the way, and we followed with the reft o£
the company to a commodious wooden building adjoining to
the cathedral. Upon entering the apartment the governor
3 fld Ruffian gentlemen kiffed his hand with great marks of,
* Kiilgi
refpeiSs.