in a substantial manner, and the gardens are laid
out and tended most carefully. They are under the
supervision of a lay missionary, a Scotchman. The
mission was founded by the beneficence of Sir William
McKinnon, and its purpose was a most practical
one. The idea of its founder was that it should prove
a means of educating the people as well as of converting
them; and to this end men equipped to teach them
industries of a practical nature had been sent out for
its management. At the time I visited it, however,
the natives had not as yet shown much interest in
the efforts of their teachers; but I suppose the interest,
though delayed, will come in time.
Dr. Charters was a most interesting man. He had
spent six years on the Congo, and while there had
taken Stanley and a part of the Relief Expedition as
far as Yambuya, on the little mission steamer “ Peace.”
He was the best equipped missionary I have ever seen,
being a clergyman, a practical engineer, and a doctor
of medicine.
Poor Dr. Charters! His end was a sad one. In
September of the year I met him (1894) he, in company
with a Scotchman named Colquhoun and a few
men, went on a shooting-trip in the 'neighbourhood
of the mission. They never returned. It is supposed
that they were slain by a party of raiding Masai, for
the exact manner of their death could never be
ascertained.
If more missionaries like Dr. Charters could be
sent to Africa, I feel convinced that the task of
raising the standard of native life would be a much
easier one. He was devoted to his work, and from
his long experience in Africa had learned (what it
is impossible to teach missionaries fresh from home)
that the native must first of all be taught to work a
little harder than is absolutely necessary to support
life ; this fills the native with an interest in his future
life on this earth. Then, and not until then, is he
ripe for religious instruction.
A t this mission station I left the two slaves I had
freed at Ukambani — Dr. Charters offering to care
for them, and send them home by the first caravan
passing toward Kikuyu.
I was told that Hamidi had been employed in the
construction of this mission some years before, but
owing to his fondness for intrigue against the Europeans
he had been sent away. I wished that I had
known this before I engaged him; but alas! it is
almost impossible in Africa to learn the character of
one’s men until acquired by painful experience.
From Kibwezi to Mombasa there stretches a capital
road, fifteen feet wide and clear of all brush. It
was a great treat to us to find a smooth road under
our feet, and to be relieved from all anxiety as to
water. Mile-posts were placed along the side of the
road, and the whereabouts of water was ascertained
from large painted sign-boards. The distance from
Kibwezi mission to Mombasa is just 200 miles, and
this we accomplished without undue effort in less
than ten days. The march was uneventful. A t a
place called Voi, about half-way to the coast, we came
to the camp of Mr. Wilson, who was employed in the
road-making. He had under him a few Zanzibari, but
most of the work was done by a force of over 200