CH A P T E R IX
On August 23, Lieutenant von Hohnel and I,
with twenty-five men and six donkeys, went to the
top of the Loroghi range, called by the natives
Subugo (forest). The Leikipia plateau stretches
in a southwesterly direction as far as the eye, can
see, and is covered with high, waving grass, dotted
at intervals with bushes. This place seemed to afford
perfect pasturage for cattle, sheep, and goats, and I
have no doubt that, at some day, owing to the healthy
climate consequent upon its high altitude, it will be
used for that purpose by Europeans. Even in the
heat of the day the air on the Leikipia plateau is
cool, while at night the thermometer falls to forty-
three Fahrenheit.
Upon reaching the Leikipia plateau we camped,
and the following morning set out for Subugo. In
the early hours the forest seemed all but inviting.
As we neared it, we saw many indications of the
presence of éléphants and rhinoceroses ; hence we
felt confident of laying in a good supply of meat.
A t 11 a .m . we reached a place where the forest
became interesting in appearance, the trees being for
the most part what are termed in this country
Morio. This is a tree which very much resembles
a holly bush, and from its sap the natives procure
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some of their poison. Among other trees growing
here, there was an excellent variety of cedar, growing
very straight, with trunks sufficiently thick to have
planks sawn therefrom.
About noon we heard a rhinoceros charging upwind
at us, but it did not reach the caravan. The
cover was so thick that we did not see the animal
until it was quite upon us. Although this rhinoceros
did no damage, the fact that it charged so near us
caused Lieutenant von Hohnel to seize his rifle and
carry it himself, contrary to his usual custom of entrusting
the weapon to his gun-bearer. Five minutes
later we came upon fresh elephant tracks; the ground
was strewn with small branches, from which the bark
had been stripped, and in the soil were many marks of
ponderous feet. This discovery added caution to our
movements, and we pressed on as rapidly and noiselessly
as possible. A few moments passed, when
suddenly I heard upon my left the snort of another
rhinoceros. I looked sharply in the direction from
which the sound came, and saw one of these animals
coming through the bush. It was not coming directly
at me, but appeared to turn off toward the rear of the
caravan, so I did not fire, being loath to disturb
the elephants which we knew to be near. Thinking
the beast had passed harmlessly, I continued on my
way. Soon my attention was arrested by loud shouts
from the rear, and fierce barks from Felix and his two
puppies. I stopped a moment and looked back, but
could see nothing, owing to the thick bush. In an
instant, however, I heard the snorts of the rhinoceros
coming in my direction. Presently there emerged